» Ginger

In my memory, there is a cherry tree in the backyard of my grandmother’s house. It is taller than the house and shades the back bedroom, where I often sleep when I visit. On the sticky hot summer evenings when we throw the windows wide, I can hear the breeze ruffling the leaves, lulling me to sleep. Its sturdy, spreading branches make this cherry tree more inviting to climb than the peach trees further down the yard.

With a cherry tree, it seems that you could pull your way up into the tree with little effort and vanish among the thick green leaves, finding a comfortable perch and your own personal cherry picking heaven. And while I don’t often take to climbing other people’s trees out in the picking orchards these days, I do love that experience of climbing deep into the tree on a towering ladder. Suddenly, you are surrounded by drooping branches of sweet fruit, sometimes sticky from the bees and birds that call these havens their own. I favor the clumps of heavy fruit that come off in long, elegant, stemmed pairs, nature’s tasty version of a 2-for-1 deal.

Last week, I mentioned I was working on a recipe for clafoutis. You’ve heard about clafoutis, right? It is a flan-like dessert, often served slightly warm, that is usually overflowing with cherries. (OK, maybe the overflowing part is more me than anything else!) Eaten as a dessert, or maybe even a tasty breakfast treat, the custardy filling is perfectly at home with seasonal fruit. And while cherries are the traditional filling, the batter takes well to almost any fruit. And once you’ve tasted it for yourself, you will likely find reasons to adapt it to raspberries, blueberries, pears and more.

I don’t generally make clafoutis year round. I seem to play with it a few times every season right about now as the cherries start to pile up in my fridge. There is something about cherry season that does not let me pass by the darkly glinting heaps of the black-red fruit that I find at farmers markets or roadside stands. Surely I can find a use for a few more pounds? A month or so ago, I got a pretty baking dish with deeply fluted sides, that claims to be a clafoutis mold. With that one mention, I jumped right back into clafoutis production like I’d never missed a beat. And while I’ve always made this dish in a cast iron skillet or even a pie dish, this pan makes for a pretty presentation, even if it is a little tricky to serve.

The thing with this pan is that is a little smaller capacity than what seems to be typical for most clafoutis recipes. So I’ve been tweaking, trying to find the perfect portions for a smaller crowd. I’ve also been playing with other flour combinations to find a good gluten-free variation, but I’ll have to save that for another day. I think this recipe will nicely serve four for dessert. You can use a pan with about a 6-cup capacity, or a 9-inch pie plate or skillet. See, we aren’t picky here!

And don’t let the fact that it is cherry season fool you—this dessert is really for Tina, who will be celebrating a birthday in a few days. An undying fan of Okanagan cherries and a true connoisseur of the flan, I am sure this recipe will be just the thing for your special day. I’m sorry I can’t make you a piece this year.

While there is some debated as to whether cherry clafoutis should be prepared with whole or pitted cherries, I’ll leave that decision to you. I can’t often be bothered with the pitting, but I don’t really relish the thought of someone breaking a tooth under my watch. In the meantime, I’ve included a few drops of almond extract to add a little more flavor, no matter which way you go!

Cherry Clafoutis
Serves 4 as dessert, 2 as breakfast
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¼ cup (40 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ cup milk
¼ cup (55 grams) sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla
pinch of salt
a couple of drops almond extract, optional
2 cups (350 grams) pitted cherries

Heat oven to 350. In a large mixing bowl, measure flour. Slowly add milk to flour, whisking constantly. Beat hard to remove lumps. Add sugar, eggs, vanilla, salt and almond extract, if using. Mix well to combine.

Butter a 9-inch pan generously. Add cherries to bottom of pan and spread evenly. Pour batter on top of cherries. Place in the middle of the oven and cook for about 45 minutes, until the top is golden and puffy. The very middle of the clafoutis will still be a little wobbly when you gently shake the pan.

Allow the clafoutis to cool for about 30 minutes. Slice and sprinkle with a little icing sugar, or serve with freshly whipped cream.

Here we are at the start of July and what feels like, to me, anyway, the start of our summer vacation. The meltingly hot weather seems to have arrived, which makes lounging in the shade sound like a good idea and frosty drinks a required luxury. The garden seems to be gathering momentum, with clusters of green tomatoes appearing in the thickets and rapidly climbing pole beans. The popsicle mold sits filled with strawberry goodness in the freezer. And if all of that is not enough, it is the start of the Tour de France.

The Tour is a bit of a thing around here. And what I mean by a “thing” is a three-week celebration of cycling and French-inspired cooking. It is also a time honored tradition around here in July. There is a supply of cold French rosé in the fridge and a small sampling of recipes I hope to work my way through in the next few weeks. Of course, we will still be planning on some of our staples, like the crepes I mentioned here, as well as a delicious version of a cherry clafoutis that I’ve been working on. And don’t forget Tina’s celebratory drink that she created for just such an event!

The Tour de France, which makes a three week journey around France is not just an amazing bicycle race. With the tour’s first ever foray into the Corsican countryside, I couldn’t help but be amazed by the most gorgeous scenery of that island. Such amazing beaches and lovely towns. Another place to add to my travel wish list, I guess. And while I know I am suppose to be paying attention to the bike racing, I can’t help but watch the scenery flying by for potential travel locations in the future.

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A few days back, browsing Instagram, like you do, I came upon someone’s description of themselves that stopped me cold. Grocery store tourist. I think there were a few other words shared, but those ones really resonated with me. I wanted to rewrite my Instagram profile on the spot, but I didn’t quite feel right about reusing that description. But it’s just so perfect for me.

I hadn’t really thought about it in those specific terms, but I am that grocery store tourist. Take me to any grocery store and don’t expect to leave anytime soon. I am going to wander the aisles—up and down every last one of them. I want to see everything that is on offer. Unique produce, unusual sweets, new tea varieties and let me not forget the dairy section.

Even better is the foreign grocery store in a faraway country. English is not the main language here, leaving me puzzling over the few words that I can piece together on the packaging. And try finding your way around a grocery store organized in a non-American configuration. Where, oh where, did they put the salt? But that is the adventure—never knowing what I’ll find next. Maybe a different variety of Haribo candy or a wall of rosé at the corner quick mart.

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Sometimes grocery stores play a key role in my travels. Recently I visited a friend in California and planned some time to go to a Persian grocery store, eat an authentic meal and stop by an ice cream shop. (More on that later!) Inspired by a magazine article here, a new cookbook there and this crazy curiosity that propels us cooking types into new territory, I wanted to make some Persian food. Reading through recipes proved that I would need some exciting ingredients and maybe a dash of inspiration. And where better to find both of those things than wandering the tight aisles of a little shop looking for the ingredients on my list.

I found bags of fresh sour cherries at the counter and a baskets of vibrant fresh herbs. Bottles of stacked yogurt sodas, doogh, like I had just enjoyed with my meal, spilled into the narrow walkway. Tucked away in the back corner of the shop was the spice wall, covered in little hanging packets, all neatly arranged like a fine art display. Rows of fancy brands of orange flower and red rose water. I came away with a bag of puckery sour smelling dried limes and a plastic clamshell of tiny dried barberries that should last me for a while! My surprise discovery was a supply of fruit leathers, sour cherry, pomegranate and plum, that I had to try. Sweet success at the grocery store.

Not long ago back home, a friend was sharing his supply of fancy German mustard at a backyard party and I took a measured dollop to enjoy with my hotdog. Mmmm! Another friend texted me to let me know she spotted fresh figs in a local store. While the description of grocery store tourist took me by surprise, I hardly think I am alone. Thank goodness…

Just in time for summer, we are celebrating International Picnic Day. Yes, there actually is a day for that – today, June 18. And it turns out to be an event that I can get behind. Around here, we like to pack up a meal or two every week and head outdoors. Often times it will be a late Sunday afternoon or maybe even a Thursday night, when we feel like getting the weekend off to an early start. We’re lucky enough to be within biking range of a lovely park with picnic tables, trees and plenty of grass for running and lounging.

The glorious thing about picnics is that there are no rules. A picnic can be as fancy or as basic as you like. Invite all of the friends that won’t fit into your dining room out to the park, or make it the most cozy of meals with a special someone. And food suitable to eat outdoors is pretty much only limited by your imagination and the time you have to put it together.

Most often, I rely on a few delicious items that I pick up at my favorite shop. If I have time, or plan ahead, I might make a simple salad or some other dish to take along. And I do have this crazy plan that maybe one day, I’ll pull a piping hot fruit galette out of the oven and roll down to the park with a frosty cold jar of heavy cream. We’ll take turns shaking the cream and spooning the goodness onto our just warm gallette. One day…

Summer after summer, I get more of a picnic routine down. With a little gathering of supplies in advance, I can get us out the door and on our way to the park by 6 p.m., even after a full day of work. This is the lovely part about picnics, they don’t have to be complicated. Head down to a well stocked grocery store, grab a few of your favorites and head off to eat. Depending on the day, I might pack up a couple of real glasses or just throw in the melamine plates that came from a picnic set we got years ago. Meals are also quite tasty eaten by hand with a napkin to catch the drips and brush away the crumbs.

With a few summers of regular picnicking behind me, I thought I’d share a few of our favorites, just in time for your own summertime adventures.

Easy food options:
Baguette
Selection of salami
Favorite cheeses
Hard boiled eggs
Olives/cornichons
Something to drink
Fresh fruit
Chocolate bar

Make something delicious to bring along:
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Tina’s fancy pocket picnic sandwiches
Grape cake to round things out
And just in case you decide to live the galette dream, here’s the recipe.

Bits to pack to make your picnic even better:
Salt
Paring knife
Corkscrew/bottle opener
Napkins
Glasses

Fancy extras:
Blanket for lounging
Bocce ball, soccer or frisbee
Favorite book, magazine or sketchbook
Tablecloth

Summer is birthday season in my family. Growing up, the four of us celebrated birthdays May through August at the steady pace of one per month. Another birthday cake was always just around the corner, and we were celebrating all summer long! What’s more, when my husband joined the party years later, his birthday in September fit perfectly into the schedule.

Birthdays are extra special when you are young and just looking to add another year to your age. As kids, Tina and I were very enthusiastic about treasure hunts at our parties. I like to think everyone enjoyed them as much as we did. I am not sure where this idea came from, most likely from some book or other we were immersed in. There was a period of several years where every birthday party included a foray into the back yard to search for treasure. Our mom was a great sport, setting up clues to keep us and our friends happy. At the end of our search, we’d always find brown paper bags, labelled with our names. The bags were filled with sweet treats to keep us happy for days. Tina and I got to pitch in by picking out the candy that we would share with our friends in those goodie bags. I still remember the sour gummy candies, sprinkled with sparkly sugar. Those are still my favorites.

These days, treasure hunts aren’t a part of our birthday routines. It is extra special event when we can get together to spend time with family around birthdays. Just a few weeks back, we all celebrated my dad’s birthday. And while we didn’t make him search for his gifts, the treasure hunt tradition is not over yet. I am pretty sure my son will be eager to carry on this little ritual.  And his birthday is still coming up…

As birthday season is just getting underway, I think I might have found the cake for all occasions. The June issue of Bon Appétit had a lovely feature on strawberries, complete with a berry pavlova. (Click here for the recipe.) Since my birthday coincides with strawberry season, the choice for my dessert was already made. The first of the juicy red berries are just beginning to appear in our farmer’s market, and this yummy pavlova seems like a fitting use for them. And next time I need a party cake, I think I’ll just rotate in seasonal fruit—raspberries, peaches and blueberries all sound pretty delicious. I followed the recipe as listed and it turned out really well. Whoever came up with the genius idea of whipped cream AND mascarpone should be saluted! My only word of advice is that you might have a hard time prettily cutting and plating the dessert. Things can get a little messy. But it’s a birthday cake, after all. Serve it with champagne and no one will be the wiser!

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A few weeks back, I mentioned my radish craze. Each season, I feel like I cannot get enough of the spring-fresh roots, so I plant them all throughout the garden. Staggering the plantings across several weeks, I am always hoping for a steady supply of radishes until the summer heat gets the better of them. As luck would have it, my first planting of radishes grew out of control this year.

Radishes are one of those garden crops that are fast. Twenty two days from planting until harvest, boasts my seed packet. It may not be quite true, but I didn’t bother counting. In the early stages of spring, 22 days sounds like another season. But there they came, those hardy first seedlings pushed out of the ground with determination and haven’t looked back. So when I came back from another weekend away, more than 22 days later, my ombre french breakfast radishes were a little bigger than desirable. I felt some dedication to the radishes, my first harvest of the season. So I carefully pulled them up, left their leafy foliage in the garden and scrubbed away the last bits of dirt that clung to the roots.

If you have ever seen a radish grow past it’s prime, you’ll know what I mean when I say they can get a little spongy inside. But I was still determined to get to use the radishes. So I put together a salad recipe that I hoped would save them. And even though we’ve eaten our way through the giant radishes, we’re still enjoying variations of this salad with the more appropriately sized roots!

I have also been using a recent addition to my pantry in this salad. Browsing the vinegar section of a local grocery store, (I know, who goes searching out vinegar for fun!) I found a store brand bottle of rosé vinegar. Being a bit of a rosé enthusiast, I couldn’t pass it up. Deliciously pink, the vinegar has a bit of a sweet hint. It adds a lovely flavor to the radish quick pickle, but if you can’t find any, I can’t help but think a champagne or similarly mild vinegar would work out just fine.

Radish and spring green salad

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Serves 2

Radishes, about 8, thinly sliced and cut into matchsticks
1 tablespoon rosé vinegar
Sprinkle of salt
2 cups mixed greens, baby arugula, pea shoots, fresh herbs, etc.
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
2 chunks of feta cheese

Combine radishes, vinegar and salt in a small bowl and let sit for at least 10 minutes. Toss radishes with salad greens and olive oil and arrange on two plates. Season to taste. Top with the feta cheese and serve.

It seems like we have been everywhere but home lately. For the last month or so, we’ve packed up and piled into the car most weekends, bound for some destination or other. We’ve seen family and city, spent time camping and celebrating anniversaries. And while I love my fair share of travel, it has put a small crimp in my garden planting routines this spring.

I am happy to report that everything is finally in the ground as of just a few days ago. I might be a little late this year, but I think everything will pull through nicely. Instead of a weekend activity spread over a day or two, it took weeks this year. And my little plot is relatively small. Planting the garden has crept into my week night routines, planting a tomato start or two before dinner or sowing another row of radishes in the early morning before heading off to work. Seriously, people, these things happened!

The radishes are usually the first things I try to get into the garden. The very best radishes always seem to be the early ones, pulled from the ground in the still-cool spring, snappy and crisp. So as soon as the garden is mapped out, in they go. I get a little anxious with radishes—will there be enough for me to get my fill and share? Since their season seems to be so short, I plant them everywhere I can. Here is a little space between the tomatoes and the peppers—it won’t be open space for long, but the radishes will be long eaten and enjoyed before the other plants have filled that space.

The other thing that happens early in the season is our transition to outdoor meals. Weather permitting, we eat almost all of our meals on the patio from May until about September. Maybe October, depending on the day. We’ve already had several meals outside, long afternoon lunches in the spring sun and evening drinks with friends. But it seems like we’ve settled into a good routine and we’re outside every night now. It’s kind of hard to keep the dining room table clear when we’re not eating there much, though.

We also dusted off the barbecue. Now that we’ve reached the long weekends of May, it is almost a requirement! I love this salad for rounding out a meal cooked on the grill. The salad can be prepped quickly and added to the grill at the last minute for a fast finish.

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Grilled romaine lettuce salad

Serves 2 per head of lettuce

Wash and trim lettuce. Slice head in half lengthwise and season with a drizzle of olive olive and sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper. Place lettuce, cut side down, on a hot grill and cook until char marks appear, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn and cook a few minutes longer. Serve warm with caesar dressing, lemon wedges, freshly grated Parmesan cheese and more black pepper.

I’ve been feeling a little out of sorts lately. For one thing, I developed a serious injury three weeks before my half marathon. I managed to injure the tendon in my upper thigh and couldn’t walk, much less run, without some sort of limp and a great deal of pain. Resting for a few weeks was not enough and in the end, I was unable to run with Tina. I decided to at least start the run with her and as we approached the first transit station home, ease out of that crowd of runners to meet up with her at the finish line. I wanted to go on. That throng of runners gives off such amazing energy. It was a gorgeous morning for a run—just the type of day that I envisioned on many of my cold dark winter runs. I knew that if I could hold on through that pain, I could make it. After all, I hadn’t trained for four long months to have this result. But in the end, the realization that building on that injury  was going to keep me away from running even longer won out. The disappointment that came along with opting out of that goal kind of took the wind out of my sails. I may have been a little mopey. I’m sorry.

In the midst of all of that injury nonsense, I haven’t been able to figure out what to eat. Usually I have some idea or ingredient that sits in the back of my brain until mealtime. But for the past week or so, there’s been nothing. All I could come up with was salad, craving the crunch and texture of fresh veggies. Not too long ago, I was on a pho kick with a crisper drawer full of Thai basil, cilantro and bean sprouts to accompany a simmering pot of broth. As the temperature warmed up, the mint began to grow wild in my herb pot and soup bowl became salad bowl. What’s more, I got carried away with the idea of an iceberg lettuce salad. Thinking back, I am pretty sure it was fueled by Eva’s amazing photos of Kronner Burger that she shared here.  I know, I know, the burger is supposed to be the star of that show, but the wedge salad spoke to me. I don’t think I’ve created the right recipe yet, but let’s just say it is inspirational.
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While I was in Vancouver, Tina and I grabbed a couple of salads to take home while the boys dined on poutine—while in Canada, right? Tina had finished her big run earlier in the day and we were wracking our brains for something simple and delicious to eat. Which is when we landed on the idea of takeaway salads from a local Vietnamese restaurant. Pouring over the menu, we quickly narrowed down our options to the taro and pomelo salads. The kitchen was tiny and surely represented generations of one family, all working together. A young girl up front juiced her way through a mountain of fresh limes that perfumed the air. Dad or uncle somebody stood further back in the kitchen, mixing up dressing for our salads and grandma prepped vegetables with a selection of sharp and colorful mandolines. We took our meal home, spreading it across the apartment table so we could share. The taro salad was spiked with pungent rau ram (a flavorful herb sometimes known as Vietnamese cilantro) and savory fried shallots. The pomelo salad was sweet with juicy citrus and fresh mint. And they both paired beautifully with the bottle of celebratory cava we had on hand to celebrate the end of our run. Happily, Tina shared with me despite my lack of participation. Thank goodness for sisters.

I’ve been trying to adopted a Swedish mindset to this chilly spring we’ve been having. Just this weekend, I was listening to Rick Steves and his weekly radio show. This is a dangerous program for me because my love of travel is always piqued by his interviews with tour guides and residents of faraway cities. His subject for a portion of this week’s show was Stockholm, Sweden. This city has not been on the top of my travel list, but I was intrigued by the descriptions of its residents and their tendency towards an outdoor lifestyle, no matter what the season. The tour guide described cozy restaurant patios where you could go to enjoy a drink, complete with toasty blankets for those evenings a little extra warmth is needed.

This was all of the motivation I needed to pull out a cozy blanket from the closet and head out to the patio. It’s really not that warm yet, but when the sun starts to shine, I feel like I really must be outside to enjoy it. And now, wrapped up in blankets, we’ve been enjoying brief slivers of sunset sky before heading indoors for the evening.

If you’ve been reading along, you’ll know that I’ve had a bit of spring fever in the kitchen recently. The changing seasons make me look for the next dish that is going to sum up the flavor of the moment for me. Salads of all proportions have been popping up—platters and bowls that take over the meal with their green crunchiness and leafy goodness. But spring isn’t wholly captured in a salad bowl. The other thing I’m searching for is food that feels light after a season of warm and filling. Hmm…meringue, anyone? It’s time for one last hurrah for the citrus, and quickly, before the rhubarb takes over the place.

For years, I’ve been sidestepping the crust on any piece of pie that I’ve ever been served. Sure, I love the fillings—spicy pumpkin, luscious summer cherry and creamy lemon. Better still the toppings, a dollop of whip cream, scoop of ice cream or an airy cap of meringue. But no matter what the filling, my perfect pie would certainly be crust free.

So I do find myself a little surprised to have never really considered the option of deconstructing the pie, leaving the crust behind to focus on my favorite part of the dessert. But all that has changed when I found the recipe for lemon meringue pots de crème in The New York Times a few weeks back. I’ve got some lost time to make up for now!

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Adapted from The New York Times

1 1/2 cups half and half
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup sugar, plus 4 tablespoons
4 large eggs, separated, room temperature
3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup lemon juice
Zest of one large lemon
1 tablespoon finely chopped pistachios

Heat half and half and milk in a heavy saucepan or a double-boiler until warm and steaming. In a large mixing bowl, combine egg yolks, 1/2 cup sugar. Sift the cornstarch and salt into the mixture, stirring frequently to prevent lumps.

Slowly whisk 1/2 cup of the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture, then slowly add the remaining milk and mix well. Pour back into saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the custard thickens, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in butter, lemon juice and zest. Ladle the custard into 6 4-ounce ramekins. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine pistachios and 1 tablespoon sugar in a small bowl. Combine egg whites and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in a bowl. Beat until stiff peaks form. Spoon the meringue onto each custard, using all of the meringue. Sprinkle with the pistachio-sugar mixture. Bake until tops are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Keep at room temperature until ready to serve.

This weekend, we headed out adventuring. On this particular sun dappled day, this means that we throw everything in the car, including at least three cameras for me, and start driving. Maybe we’ll head for the mountains where I see a skiff of fresh snow or for the wheat fields that are rippling green in the wind. No matter where we go, the sun shines warmly and the clouds chase each other across the sky. This is a difficult concept for a 3-year-old. The usual questions of “Where are we going?” and “What will we see when we get there?” have no good answers. Happily, everything ended well when we found an old train depot and a caboose at the end of our journey. I couldn’t have planned that part any better!

Even though the air is cool, I know spring is coming. No matter that there is a frost warning tonight. I am keeping that spring feeling in the air with my continued quest to brighten up our meals with a new round of salad options. In part, you could say that I am just trying to clean out the fridge to make room for the massive load of asparagus that is soon to follow. You wouldn’t be wrong.

In the meantime, you might not be familiar with celeriac, or celery root as it is sometimes known. Or perhaps not up on the idea of using it in salad, but I think this is something worth trying. All winter long, celeriac is cooked and stewed up in warm and cozy dishes. But sliced up nice and thin, it adds great texture to salad. And better still, it’s all raw, if that’s your thing, ahem…!

I’ve been meaning to share this salad for some time. It makes use of some of the most available wintertime produce, yet still manages to be fresh and new. As the season has progressed, I’ve changed it up to keep up with my citrus selection. Plus, it seems that the arugula and mint are getting a kick out of our cool sunny weather. And I know I’m not the only one eeking out the last few meals of delicious winter produce. My friend Emily has this stunning recipe up on Food 52 right now.

And on this sad Monday, I realize I have a lot more to be thankful for aside from salad or springtime or sunny days. But sometimes the best I can do in these crazy moments is sit for a quiet minute do just that—be thankful.

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Adapted from Cooking Light

1 small celeriac root, peeled and cut into matchsticks, about 2 cups
2 cups thinly sliced celery
1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pink peppercorns
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large pink grapefruit, peeled and segmented
1 cup baby arugula
1/4 cup Italian parsley leaves
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, torn

Combine celeriac, celery and red onion in a bowl. Toss with olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pink peppercorns and black pepper. Let stand for at least 30 minutes.

When ready to serve, add grapefruit segments, arugula and fresh herbs.