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Part 2, you might wondered? What is there to follow up on after Tina’s post of the Magic Rose Custard Cake. Well, it started a few months back with an order of new cookbooks. I think I’ve mentioned here before that I tend to be a little behind the times on the newest releases, but only because I’m still cooking through something else! But amongst this particular batch was the amazing book by Aran Goyoaga, of the inspirational food blog Cannelle et vanille. There is a lot I could say about this book and how Aran’s way of gluten free cooking has influenced my kitchen over the past few months. But I am going to cut that story short for now and just tell you that now I have a better selection of flours in my cupboard. And there is nothing dull about variety…

Baking with a new range of flours has been a quite a process for me. While I typically charge headlong into most any new recipe, now I take a step back and wonder if I could make this same dish with different flours. Baking without gluten is a whole new learning curve, blending flavors and textures of various flours to achieve new results. It has added a new level of experimentation to my cooking and a great appreciation of my kitchen scale. So when Tina shared the Magic Custard Cake recipe that appeared on White On Rice Couple’s blog, you can probably guess what I was thinking.

Some careful consideration was given to the recipe before I made my tweaks. First off, this custardy cake has no intention of being a mile-high event. The comfort of this cake is its crepe-y texture, topped with a silky layer of custard and dusted with a snowy finish of powdered sugar. And since ensuring the batter would rise didn’t seem to be an issue, I was off to improvise. Rice flour, coconut flour—what was it going to be?

My first attempt was the chocolate version and it was delicious, so I decided to keep playing with flours and flavors. As you can see, the magic in this cake is the seperation of the three layers of cake, right in the pan while it bakes. A few cakes were made and I may have shared pieces with anyone who would come over with their own plate! What I finally settled on was the coconut custard cake. The slightest hint of coconut flavor in the cake creates a delicious note for me. And while I haven’t tried to make this cake with regular wheat flour, I would wager that most anyone who tastes this cake won’t even miss the wheat flour.

Magic custard cake with coconut
Adapted from White On Rice Couple

½ cup unsalted butter
2 cups milk
4 eggs, separated
1/8 teaspoon white vinegar
1 ¼ cups (150 g) confectioner’s sugar
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½ teaspoon coconut flavoring
1 cup (115 g) super fine brown rice flour
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Generous pinch of salt

Extra confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 325°F. Line an 8″x8″ baking pan with parchment paper, leaving a little paper to hang over the edge of the pan.

Gently warm the milk until just warm and set aside. Melt the butter and let it cool a little.

In a medium mixing bowl, beat egg whites until they form stiff peaks, adding the vinegar at the halfway point. Set the egg whites aside.

In a second bowl, beat the egg yolks and confectioner’s sugar until the mixture is a pale yellow. Add the melted butter, water and coconut flavoring and continue to mix until well incorporated.

Mix in the flour and salt. Slowly add milk and vanilla extract; continue mixing until the batter is smooth. Divide the egg whites into thirds and fold in one portion at a time, gently mixing until all of the egg whites are folded in and there are no large clumps of egg white in the mixture.

Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and bake until the top of the cake is golden, about 50 to 60 minutes. The cake will still jiggle a bit at this point. Allow to fully cool in the pan, maybe even in the fridge, if you are a bit anxious. Once cool, carefully lift out the parchment paper and cake, cut into squares and dust with confectioner’s sugar just before serving.

The winter months aren’t often thought of as big preserving months. Maybe preserving your own sanity through the cold and grey months is enough! And when it comes to saving the season, I don’t have much to save. Except for this year when I couldn’t quite seem to get enough of the Meyer lemon. I’ve been using them in cocktails, zesting and juicing them into salad dressings and pretty much any other dish that could use a bit of bright flavor. Not to mention that a pretty bowl of them on the kitchen counter couldn’t look more sunny if they tried!

But Meyer lemons definitely have a season around here, unless you are one of those lucky people with a tree in the greenhouse or a shrub at your front door step, ahem. So when I found a short video posted on Food 52 with a quick glance at how they were preserving lemons, I was hooked. I headed down to the grocery store and picked up a bursting bag of Meyer lemons. I think the check out girl may have looked at me a little funny. Then it was off to the kitchen supply store for another oversize jar. I like the old school ones with wire bale closures. I do have a few, but as it turns out, they are full of kimchi!

My favorite taste of preserved lemon came at the Marché des Enfants Rouges in Paris. The late autumn afternoon was filled with a strong, cold wind. The clouds hung dark with rain and off in the distance, I heard the rumble of thunder. As we entered the market, the downpour began. We huddled by the glass display counter, filled with platters piled high with delicious offerings—tagines, salads, couscous and breads. On the counter just behind stood shining stacks of ornate tea glasses. Nearby, a grey-haired man poured glasses of fragrant mint tea. We ordered and the waiter hurried our food off to a sheltered table just under the eaves of the building. All around, the rain rushed and splashed. But the vegetable tagine, enjoyed from a rough earthenware bowl, sparkled with the bright flavors of lemon and green olive. Fingers curled around the burning hot glass of tea, a downpour couldn’t have come at a better moment.

Thinking back, I don’t know why I didn’t rush home to try some preserved lemon in my own cooking. Maybe that memory was enough to last me for a little while. Or maybe it was the mint tea binge that ensued when I returned home and completely captured my attention for months. But now that I’ve returned to that lemony flavor, I can’t wait for all of that salt and some time to work their magic on those lemons. In the meantime, I’ve been dreaming of pairing that deep lemon essence with spring-fresh asparagus when it finally arrives in from the fields, or maybe even brightening up a potato salad or deviled egg filling.

As I read through the comments following up on the Food 52 post, I found suggestions of using the lemony brine to flavor martinis and salad dressing. Genius, I’m guessing! I can’t wait to try a little dash with some sautéed spring peas or to season a simple sauce for pasta. I also found reference to a Paula Wolfert recipe for preserved lemons, which includes a handful of spices in with the brine—cinnamon, cloves, pepper and bay leaves. And I can attest that hanging my head over a jar filled with lemons and topped with those spices was intoxicating.

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This is not so much a recipe as an idea to get started you started. It also doesn’t matter so much what size jar you use. The biggest one you have, or just plain old mason jars should do the trick. The main matter is how many lemons you want to get you through until next season. I made two jars…

Preserved Meyer lemons

Meyer lemons, organic, if possible, scrubbed
Kosher salt
Spices, 3 to 4 pieces black peppercorn, pink peppercorn and cloves; 1 cinnamon stick and 2 fresh bay leaves, if desired
Sterilized jar

Cover the bottom of the jar with a layer of kosher salt. Working one at a time, trim the top off the lemon, cutting into quarters length-wise. Don’t cut all the way through the lemon so the quarters remain attached. Carefully pull apart the quarters and generously sprinkle with kosher salt. Press the lemon back together and place in the jar. As the lemons accumulate, gently press them down with your hand to release the juice and allow for more room in the jar. Continue until the jar is almost full. I got about 14 lemons in my 1½ liter jar. Top the lemons with spices, if using. If there is not enough juice to cover the lemons, squeeze another lemon or two to fill the jar.

Cover and let sit in a cool, dark spot. Within the first couple of days, open the jar once or twice during the day to release pressure from the fermenting process. Sealed tightly, turn the jar over once a day or so to allow the salt to mix well.

Let the lemons ferment at room temperature for three to four weeks, then place in the refrigerator, where they can keep for months. Before storing, remove the spices, as they may get bitter with time. Just be sure to use clean utensils when retrieving the fruit from the jar.

For me, the best gatherings happen in the kitchen—food preparation in full swing, maybe a little snack or something to sip on, all the while chatting with friends or family. The meal comes together at a leisurely place, but the time spent preparing and enjoying it together is the event itself. These are the cooking moments that I hang some of my best food memories around.

One of my favorite “cooking as the event” moments happened in Paris with my sister. Since when does an evening cooking dinner in a tiny rented kitchen upstage an afternoon wandering the avenues of Paris, right? It was years ago, but I still remember the deep pleasure of shopping for our dinner items at the market, deciding what suited our mood for the evening, then negotiating with the market vendor on the exact specimens, according to our estimated meal time. Hauling our supplies up flights and flights of stairs to our apartment, deciding to while away the chilly evening hours in the kitchen. At some point, the hot steam coming from the pots bubbling on the stove fills up the tiny space forces us to throw open the window to the narrow courtyard that our building wraps around. Outside we hear the clatter and bustle of dinner coming together for everyone else in our building and we feel at ease.

Of course, not every meal is a magical Parisian memory. Most often, I enjoy the company of friends and family in my own kitchen where we partake in the age-old ritual of preparing and sharing a meal. It’s likely not a fancy meal, but nourishing and prepared with care—the very acts of chopping and dicing friendship at its best. And in these dark days of winter, it is something to look forward to. So in that celebratory spirit, I created this cocktail to share.

Meyer lemons are a seasonal favorite of mine—but hording fresh fruit is only advisable when there is a good use for it in sight. This cocktail proves to be a delicious way to highlight the sweet and pronounced flavor of the lemon.

Meyer’s Refresher

Serves 2
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3 oz. Meyer lemon juice
3 oz. gin
4 dashes grapefruit bitters
Scant 2 teaspoons rosemary simple syrup, recipe follows
Sparkling wine or cava, to finish

Combine all ingredients and shake over ice. Pour into two small glasses, add ice and top with sparkling wine. Garnish with a slice of Meyer lemon.

Rosemary Syrup

Makes 1 cup

1 cup white sugar
1 cup water
1 cup fresh rosemary sprigs
peel of one Meyer lemon

Combine water and sugar in a small sauce pan and bring to a boil. Allow to boil for about 5 minutes, until all of the sugar is dissolved. Add in the rosemary and lemon peel and stir to incorporate. Remove from heat and let steep for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour. Remove peel and rosemary and store in the fridge.

Pause with me for a moment and reflect back, 31 days ago to be exact. Yes, the day we made all those resolutions that we have either long since forgotten about or are seriously regretting ever making. That might be a little harsh, but this week I have rather unintentionally found myself revisiting those plans that I made. But instead of focusing on what I haven’t done (not to brag or anything but, I have been doing pretty well) I have been focusing on fine tuning, devising ways to keep my plans on track and perhaps making them more realistic. I am notorious for taking on too much, planning too big and getting side tracked.

This year I hope to learn to focus on being present and in the now. This week I have been reminding myself that life is made up of little details, in-between stages and stolen moments. It is so easy to get caught up in the big picture and forget to enjoy the moments that we have right now. We forget to admire the purple stock of the thai basil that went into last nights dinner or the fuzzy silver sage leaves that I really need to figure out how to use up before they go to waste or watch the milk as it swirls into a cup of tea. All of these lovely moments meant to be enjoyed to the fullest and remembered.

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While plenty of food was made this week; recipes tried and modified, some saved and others quickly forgotten. This week I want to pause… pause and remember to enjoy every bit of it.

From both of us to all of you, may the season be filled with fun, food and fond memories. We’re celebrating the holidays together here at Chez Albrecht and we’ll be back to regular posts in the next week or so. In the mean time, happy holidays. Thanks for all of your support throughout the year.
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With the holidays here, there seems to be all kinds of hustle and bustle. There are gatherings and presents to attend to, not to mention the last-minute baking or shopping. But with all the news in the last few days, I’ve just been wanting to sit quietly and take things in. It’s easy to get caught up in whatever is at hand during the holidays, but this year it seems a little more important to slow down.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been thinking about mindfulness. That can mean all kinds of things, but for me, it is about taking in all of the details of regular life on a daily basis. The little things—a sliver of sunlight in the early afternoon, the sweet cedar scent in my favorite tea, the warm glow of the holiday lights. Time in the kitchen, for me, is about that same level of attentiveness—smelling the browning butter and knowing just when it is ready or carefully wrapping a small tree’s worth of persimmons to store away for January. These tasks aren’t milestones in my week, but they bring moments of happiness to my day.

When I think about our meals, I try to be mindful of many things. What’s healthy, what’s in season, what are food preference do I need to account for and what do I want to make? Sometimes a slow simmering pot seems warming. Sunday seems to be a good day for simmering pots at my house in the winter. Other days, quick is king at mealtime, that would be most any workday. Happily, this recipe incorporates both those elements in just the right order. I like to cook a pot of beans on the weekend, then rinse and drain them for use throughout the week.

The best thing about this recipe is that it works for any meal. Paired with poached eggs and a slice of a favorite toasted loaf, it could be breakfast or a light dinner. Since the beans are also delicious at room temperature, it makes a nice addition to shared meal. And it travels well packed in a little jar for a lunch at the office. While the recipe makes enough to feed four as a meal, I’ve been frying the beans in smaller batches as we are ready to eat them and getting a couple of meals from one pot of beans. And don’t be confused, butter beans are the same thing as Lima beans, but one name is much more compelling than the other, no?

Fried butter beans with spinach, feta and sumac

Barely adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty
Serves 4 

2 ¼ cups dried baby butter beans
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1 ½ tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to finish
8 green onions, cut on a sharp diagonal, very thin
5 cups fresh spinach, sliced thinly, reserve a little for garnish
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup crumbled feta cheese
2 teaspoons sumac
Generous handful of chopped herbs, parsley, dill, cilantro or mint would all be good

Soak the butter beans in a large bowl filled with water and baking soda. Allow to sit for at least 12 hours or overnight.

Rinse the beans in plenty of fresh water. Place in a large cooking pot topped with plenty of water. Bring to a slow boil and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the beans are tender. The beans should be soft, but not falling apart in the pot. When done, drain the beans and set aside until ready to use.

Working in batches, lightly fry the beans in a large frying pan. Add a little of the butter and oil to the pan, then add enough beans to just cover the bottom of the pan. Take care not to overfill the pan, as you want the beans to have a little room in the pan. At medium-high heat, fry for a minute or two, just to get a little color on the beans. Remove the beans from the pan, add a little more butter, olive oil and beans and continue with the next batch.

When almost done cooking the last batch of beans, add the green onions and almost all of the spinach and sauté for about a minute. Remove the pan from heat and add the rest of the fried beans and the ½ teaspoon salt, tossing gently to combine.

Taste and season the beans as needed, adding in the lemon juice, sumac and more salt, if needed. Sprinkle the beans with the crumbled feta, reserved spinach and handful of chopped herbs. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a little more sumac.

Every now and again I am forced to make the epic trip down into the depths of the parkade. Final destination, the storage locker; I hate the storage locker. It is a constant reminder that I am not an organized person and that I am also a slacker. Every time I venture down there I say to myself, next weekend I’m going to come down here and get this place organized. Of course I never do.

On a recent trip to the dreaded locker I abandoned my usual “chuck and run” technique and decided to stay and poked around a little. Low and behold, I discovered a stash of canvases from university. Apparently I had some notion that I would eventually gain some talent with my paint brushes and become the person down by the ocean painting epic landscapes on the weekends. Yeah, so that never happened and now I just have a stack of canvases. For old times sake I decided to haul one upstairs and try my hand at painting again.

While I am a visual and creative person, I have learned that painting is not my strong suit. Yes, I will admit that I did hang on to a certain fantastic painting from university a little too long. With that in mind I decided to paint something a little more graphic and a lot more my speed; a triangle masterpiece. I know that you are just dying to spice up your book shelf with a triangle master piece too, so run out and get yourself some paint and follow the directions below. Depending on your desired pattern you can take this project anywhere from a green square to a double black diamond.

Paint your own triangle master piece

You’ll need:
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Acrylic paint (in the colours of your choice)
Ruler
Fine bristled paint brush
One canvas

Getting started:
Begin by priming your canvas. I didn’t have any guache on hand, so I decided to make due with the copious amounts of white paint that I have been hoarding for the last 10 years.

After your canvas has fully dried, begin to mask out your pattern. I recommend doing a quick mock-up of your design on the computer first. This will help indecisive people like me decide if you really like the pattern; it also helps with planning how to mask your pattern.

Get out your paint and paint brush, it is time for the fun part! Paint in your mask according to your mock-up. Once you have finished painting your pattern make sure to let the paint fully dry before you start taking off the tape. Voila you’re done!

* Keep in mind that if you are using a wider painters tape and your pattern has tips and points that have to match up, you may have to mask out your pattern one row at a time. I’m speaking from experience here.

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Moments captured on instagram last month.