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Charlie and I are gunning for frozen peas to be officially named the best thing since sliced bread (here’s hoping that frozen peas actually came after sliced bread). In any case, I do believe that peas are the answer to most any weekday dinner conundrum. Charlie on the other hand just thinks they are a tasty snack for cats and will hightail it into the kitchen when he hears me removing the package from the freezer.

Lucky for me frozen peas aren’t as labour intensive as I remember them being when I was a kid. We used to pack-up and head out to the Robertson’s farm for what seemed like a full day affair. I have a bit of a mental block around how the peas were collected, that could indicate one of three things, firstly it was a labor intensive project and I really hated it. Secondly, I had nothing to do with it and finally, shelling peas was so much fun that I have blocked all other memories from my mind. The latter is likely where the truth lies.

Shelling the peas was by far the best part, not because we would all sit on a porch for hours manually podding peas, but because someone had managed to turn an oldtimey ringer washing machine into a pea podding device extraordinaire. In my mind I always credited this invention to my grandpa. He was crafty that way and it seems like a good fit. The whole process unfolded as follows; you would feed a whole pea pod in between the two ringers the peas would pop out of one side, falling into a big vat and the empty pods would come out the other side. It was like taking your life into your own hands every time you shoved a pea pod into that contraption! A small child could very easily get caught up in the ringers and I thought it was fantastic.

In my mind some of the greatest comfort food features peas. Mac & cheese with peas, spaghetti and sauce with pea, fried rice… you name it and I’ll likely want to have it with green peas. One such recipe that I often make is this quick and easy risotto. The peas and lemon bring a wonderful brightness to the dish and the bacon adds a crispy, saltiness that make this dish an ultimate comfort food around here.

Lemony Bacon & Pea Risotto
adapted from Gourmet | Serves 2 

3 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup water
3 bacon slice, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2/3 cup Arborio rice
3/4 cup frozen peas
5 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
juice from half a lemon
2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

In a medium saucepan bring chicken broth and water to a boil. Once the broth mixture has boiled reduce heat to low.

Cook bacon in a pan over low heat until crispy. If you rush this process on a higher heat the bacon fat will brown and leave your risotto a darker colour. Remove bacon from pan with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel to drain.

Quickly add the garlic to the bacon fat, stirring until it is pale golden, about 30 seconds. Stir rice into garlic until nicely coated. Begin adding broth, 1/2 cup at a time to the rice and stirring occasionally. Once all the liquid has absorbed, add an additional 1/2 cup of liquid to the rice. Continue adding liquid, simmering and stirring until the rice is al dente and the dish has a creamy texture, about 18 – 20 minutes. Reserve the remaining broth mixture. Add the peas to the rice and cook for about 2 minutes.

Mix in the grated Parmigiano, butter, lemon zest and juice. Stir until incorporated. Adjust the thickness of the risotto with the reserved broth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top with bacon and parsley.

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I can turn down a baked potato any day, but a potato baked in butter is another matter entirely. Make that a crispy stack of thinly sliced potatoes, scented with thyme, sprinkled with coarse salt and pepper and suddenly I’m rummaging through my potato bin looking for supplies!

True, I am not a potato fanatic most of the time. The main exception to that rule is early summer when the season’s first potatoes start showing up at the local farmers market. I sort through the baskets, looking for the smallest tubers to bring home for dinner. With new potatoes, the simplest preparations win my heart every time. But in the dead of winter, potatoes need a little help making it onto my menu. Mashed potatoes make a few seasonal appearances on our table. Sometimes they’ll show up in a soup or curry but not much else. But not so long ago, I saw a lovely little recipe by Molly Stevens on Bon Appetit. Cue the lovely, layered and crispy mini Pommes Anna. And let the potato rummaging begin.

Aside from the crispy bits of potato, which I will admit I do have a love of, these potatoes feature thyme. Thyme might even be the star of this recipe. Wispy little sprigs adorn the stacks of potatoes, as well as flavoring the butter. Thyme’s subtile earthy flavor seems to go with everything right now. Squash, sure. Anything with melted cheese? Yes, please. I can’t help myself from adding it to most anything I might be baking this winter. My poor little plant is barely keeping up with demand.

The classic French dish, Pommes Anna, is usually a larger cake that is sliced into pieces before serving. And it doesn’t get all fancy with the addition of herbs. But I loved the individual feel of these little stacks, which makes for a little more fussing while baking, but a lovely presentation at the table. And truth be told, these little bundles do pack a fair bit more crunch per serving!

A few notes: The key to success in this recipe comes down to equipment. A mandoline will slice the potatoes perfectly so arranging them in the pan is easy and pretty. It’s also helpful to choose small potatoes. I just went with stock on hand, but I think a little smaller potato would have looked nicer. And please don’t save these delicious bundles up for a special dinner, I loved them heated up and served with Sunday brunch.

Mini Pommes Anna with Thyme
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Adapted from Molly Stevens recipe on Bon Appetit

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
12-24 small thyme sprigs plus 2 teaspoons leaves
1 small shallot, chopped finely
1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds small waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold), the smaller the better
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350°. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Generously brush muffin cups with butter. Line the bottom of each cup with parchment-paper rounds.

Arrange a couple small sprigs of thyme in the center of each round of paper. Drizzle a little butter into bottom of each cup.

Add thyme and shallots to remaining butter in saucepan. Cook over medium heat for a couple of minutes until you can smell the herbs.Remove from heat.

Using a mandoline, slice potatoes into very thin rounds and place them in a bowl, discarding the ends of the potato. Pour the herb butter over the potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss the potatoes to coat. Divide slices among muffin cups, building overlapping layers in a circular pattern. Gently press the center of each stack to compact and don’t be afraid to continue a little above the rim of each cup. They do shrink when they are baked. Drizzle any remaining butter and seasoning from bowl over the potatoes. Cover the pan tightly with foil and bake until potatoes can be pierced easily with a toothpick or knife, about 35 minutes.

Remove foil and place a rimmed baking sheet upside down on top of the muffin tin. Carefully turn both pans over so the potatoes fall onto the baking sheet. Lightly tap the pan on the counter if needed to release the potatoes. Rearrange any slices that may have some loose. Using a metal spatula, carefully turn cakes so the thyme sprigs face down. Discard parchment. You can do this in advance, covering and chilling the potatoes for one day.

Increase heat to 425°. Uncover cakes if prepared in advance. Bake until bottoms and edges are golden and crispy, about 20 to 25 minutes. Check frequently as they can darken quickly. Carefully turn potatoes so the thyme sprigs facing up. Sprinkle with a little more salt and pepper, if desired. Serve warm.

Contrary to popular belief, during the holiday season I do still eat proper food and not just cookies. So, I am taking a break from the cookie recipes just so you don’t get the wrong idea. A few evenings ago, during an impromptu stop at the grocery store to pick up dinner supplies, I spotted a wonderful display of okra. Yes, I love okra. Naturally I was forced to buy a giant bag of it and it has been burning a hole in my crisper drawer ever since.

I had been drawing a blank on what to do with my giant bag of okra until my coworker Ruby, after muffling her surprise that I actually ate okra, shared with me how her family often prepares the veggie. While this recipe was inspired by my discussion with Ruby, I am fairly sure that it likely isn’t super traditional. None the less, it is spicy, delicious and totally hits the spot. I served the okra with rice and a lentil dahl. Another thing that Ruby taught me is that dry dishes, like this okra dish, should really be served with roti and not rice. Oops. Dry dishes roti, saucy dishes rice. I will do better with that one next time!

Spicy Masala Okra
Inspired by Ruby | Serves 4

1 lb okra
1/4 cup cooking oil
1 medium diced onion
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1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
2 tomatoes finely chopped
1 tablespoon garam masala
2 tablespoons cilantro
1 teaspoon salt or to taste

Wash and trim the okra. Pat it dry with a clean kitchen towel to ensure that the okra doesn’t end up sticky and slimy. Slice lengthwise into halves and set aside.

Working with a heavy skillet, heat the oil and fry onions until they are lightly browned. Add all of the spices except the garam masala and cook for another minute. Stir in the tomatoes and continue cooking over medium-high heat until the masala is a thick uniform consistency.

Add the okra and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Gently stirring the okra until it is evenly coated with the sauce. Cover the pan and steam over medium heat until the okra is tender, about 15 minutes. Just before serving sprinkle the garam masala over the dish and taste for seasoning. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

With the holidays here, there seems to be all kinds of hustle and bustle. There are gatherings and presents to attend to, not to mention the last-minute baking or shopping. But with all the news in the last few days, I’ve just been wanting to sit quietly and take things in. It’s easy to get caught up in whatever is at hand during the holidays, but this year it seems a little more important to slow down.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been thinking about mindfulness. That can mean all kinds of things, but for me, it is about taking in all of the details of regular life on a daily basis. The little things—a sliver of sunlight in the early afternoon, the sweet cedar scent in my favorite tea, the warm glow of the holiday lights. Time in the kitchen, for me, is about that same level of attentiveness—smelling the browning butter and knowing just when it is ready or carefully wrapping a small tree’s worth of persimmons to store away for January. These tasks aren’t milestones in my week, but they bring moments of happiness to my day.

When I think about our meals, I try to be mindful of many things. What’s healthy, what’s in season, what are food preference do I need to account for and what do I want to make? Sometimes a slow simmering pot seems warming. Sunday seems to be a good day for simmering pots at my house in the winter. Other days, quick is king at mealtime, that would be most any workday. Happily, this recipe incorporates both those elements in just the right order. I like to cook a pot of beans on the weekend, then rinse and drain them for use throughout the week.

The best thing about this recipe is that it works for any meal. Paired with poached eggs and a slice of a favorite toasted loaf, it could be breakfast or a light dinner. Since the beans are also delicious at room temperature, it makes a nice addition to shared meal. And it travels well packed in a little jar for a lunch at the office. While the recipe makes enough to feed four as a meal, I’ve been frying the beans in smaller batches as we are ready to eat them and getting a couple of meals from one pot of beans. And don’t be confused, butter beans are the same thing as Lima beans, but one name is much more compelling than the other, no?

Fried butter beans with spinach, feta and sumac

Barely adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty
Serves 4 

2 ¼ cups dried baby butter beans
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1 ½ tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to finish
8 green onions, cut on a sharp diagonal, very thin
5 cups fresh spinach, sliced thinly, reserve a little for garnish
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup crumbled feta cheese
2 teaspoons sumac
Generous handful of chopped herbs, parsley, dill, cilantro or mint would all be good

Soak the butter beans in a large bowl filled with water and baking soda. Allow to sit for at least 12 hours or overnight.

Rinse the beans in plenty of fresh water. Place in a large cooking pot topped with plenty of water. Bring to a slow boil and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the beans are tender. The beans should be soft, but not falling apart in the pot. When done, drain the beans and set aside until ready to use.

Working in batches, lightly fry the beans in a large frying pan. Add a little of the butter and oil to the pan, then add enough beans to just cover the bottom of the pan. Take care not to overfill the pan, as you want the beans to have a little room in the pan. At medium-high heat, fry for a minute or two, just to get a little color on the beans. Remove the beans from the pan, add a little more butter, olive oil and beans and continue with the next batch.

When almost done cooking the last batch of beans, add the green onions and almost all of the spinach and sauté for about a minute. Remove the pan from heat and add the rest of the fried beans and the ½ teaspoon salt, tossing gently to combine.

Taste and season the beans as needed, adding in the lemon juice, sumac and more salt, if needed. Sprinkle the beans with the crumbled feta, reserved spinach and handful of chopped herbs. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a little more sumac.

It’s been a little grey lately. It’s just the way fall happens around here—sometimes we’ll go for days without seeing the sun. But when it appears, it simply glorious. In the transition to fall, I’ve been turning to my stock pots a little more frequently. Nothing fends off the chill of a cold day like a bowl of soup. So that’s what I’ve been making.

I stumbled on this recipe a few years back. I think it was winter and I was in the middle of a bean soup binge and looking for something new. Often, when it comes to soups, I don’t use a recipe. I start out with an idea, chopping and sautéing my way along until I get something I am happy with. But that can get old, so I was looking for new ideas when I came upon this gem…a take on an Iranian soup by one of my favorites, Yotam Ottolenghi.

When I think of bean soup, I think hearty and filling. But not so much comforting and bright, all in one mouthful, which is exactly what this soup is. The combination of legumes lends a decidedly creamy texture to the soup without any blending or mashing. And the handfuls of fresh herbs and spinach bring a lovely fresh aspect to the soup.

Over the course of a few winters, I’ve tried many variations on this recipe. All kinds of beans and different herb combinations depending on what’s on hand. It has gone gluten-free with the addition of rice noodles in place of regular pasta and been doubled to stock a freezer with future lunches. It’s even a favorite with my little guy, who loves the chickpeas and noodles. And despite those variations, we seem to like this version best of all.

And a few notes before we get started…if you don’t think you have time to soak and cook the beans in advance, canned beans will work in a pinch. This soup keeps nicely and makes for easy meals over a few days. If you decide to do this, you may want to forgo the onion garnish and just keep all of the onions in the soup. But whatever you do, please remember the limes. A few squeezes of the juice bring the flavors together beautifully.

Persian noodle soup

Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe

3/4 cup dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
3/4 cup dried lima beans, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
2 large onions, thinly sliced
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons turmeric
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2 quarts vegetable stock
1 cup chopped parsley
1 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped dill
1 bunch chopped scallions, about 1 cup
1 170g bag baby spinach
100g linguine noodles
3/4 cup sour cream, plus more to garnish
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Limes, for serving

Drain the beans from their soaking liquid and cook, separately, until almost tender. Depending on soaking time and the beans, this could take anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour, so check frequently. Drain and rinse.

Heat oil in a large stock pot at medium heat. Add sliced onion and cook until they begin to turn golden brown, at least 20 minutes. Continue cooking, adding the turmeric, along with a dash of salt and pepper. Stir to combine, then remove about a third of the onions from the pot for garnish.

Add in the split peas, pre-cooked beans and the stock and bring to a steady simmer for about 30 minutes, until the peas are tender. If the soup is getting thicker, add a little more water.

Break noodles in half and add to pot, stirring well to avoid clumping. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add the herbs, scallions and spinach. Continue cooking until the noodles are al dente, about 5 more minutes, depending on noodles.

Stir in sour cream and white wine vinegar and taste. Season generously with salt and pepper.

When serving, add the onion garnish, if using, as well as a dollop of sour cream. Serve with lime wedges.

Growing up mushrooms were a pretty big deal. Every fall the whole family would pile into the car and head up into the woods to gather up buckets full of their earthy goodness. I have to admit that for me the joy of mushroom season came from running around in the woods searching for hidden treasure. Forging through fallen damp leaves was significantly more pleasurable than sitting down to a plate of mushrooms. The imminent  fear of death by poisoning didn’t help much either. This is not to say that I dislike mushrooms, on the contrary, I am a mushroom fearing person but as a young person cultivated mushrooms were where it was at. Unfortunately this story isn’t about the wild mushrooms of my childhood, but instead the humble Cremini.

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On the big night I some how I managed to coax Scott into coming along with me and we headed out to the store only to join about 150 other like-minded people who also wanted to meet Deb too. Unfortunately for me most of those 150 people had shown up early or at least earlier than me! After spending two hours waiting in line I had my signed book in hand and was rushing home to begin examining the pages and planning the next meal I was going to make. And then I found it: Mushroom bourguignon. I’m not going to share the recipe with you or give you my adapted version; I’m just going to suggest that you march right down to your neighbourhood bookstore and pickup a copy of The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook for yourself. So far I have made 3 or 4 recipes out of the book and nothing has disappointed. What I love most about this cookbook is that the recipes are totally approachable and you can tell that all the food was cooked in the Smitten Kitchen. No elaborate setup, just delicious food, charming words and lovely images. So glad I got to meet you Deb and thank you for the lovely cookbook!