Tag archive for beans

Soup season

It’s been a little grey lately. It’s just the way fall happens around here—sometimes we’ll go for days without seeing the sun. But when it appears, it simply glorious. In the transition to fall, I’ve been turning to my stock pots a little more frequently. Nothing fends off the chill of a cold day like a bowl of soup. So that’s what I’ve been making.

I stumbled on this recipe a few years back. I think it was winter and I was in the middle of a bean soup binge and looking for something new. Often, when it comes to soups, I don’t use a recipe. I start out with an idea, chopping and sautéing my way along until I get something I am happy with. But that can get old, so I was looking for new ideas when I came upon this gem…a take on an Iranian soup by one of my favorites, Yotam Ottolenghi.

When I think of bean soup, I think hearty and filling. But not so much comforting and bright, all in one mouthful, which is exactly what this soup is. The combination of legumes lends a decidedly creamy texture to the soup without any blending or mashing. And the handfuls of fresh herbs and spinach bring a lovely fresh aspect to the soup.

Over the course of a few winters, I’ve tried many variations on this recipe. All kinds of beans and different herb combinations depending on what’s on hand. It has gone gluten-free with the addition of rice noodles in place of regular pasta and been doubled to stock a freezer with future lunches. It’s even a favorite with my little guy, who loves the chickpeas and noodles. And despite those variations, we seem to like this version best of all.

And a few notes before we get started…if you don’t think you have time to soak and cook the beans in advance, canned beans will work in a pinch. This soup keeps nicely and makes for easy meals over a few days. If you decide to do this, you may want to forgo the onion garnish and just keep all of the onions in the soup. But whatever you do, please remember the limes. A few squeezes of the juice bring the flavors together beautifully.

Persian noodle soup

Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe

3/4 cup dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
3/4 cup dried lima beans, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
2 large onions, thinly sliced
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons turmeric
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2 quarts vegetable stock
1 cup chopped parsley
1 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped dill
1 bunch chopped scallions, about 1 cup
1 170g bag baby spinach
100g linguine noodles
3/4 cup sour cream, plus more to garnish
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Limes, for serving

Drain the beans from their soaking liquid and cook, separately, until almost tender. Depending on soaking time and the beans, this could take anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour, so check frequently. Drain and rinse.

Heat oil in a large stock pot at medium heat. Add sliced onion and cook until they begin to turn golden brown, at least 20 minutes. Continue cooking, adding the turmeric, along with a dash of salt and pepper. Stir to combine, then remove about a third of the onions from the pot for garnish.

Add in the split peas, pre-cooked beans and the stock and bring to a steady simmer for about 30 minutes, until the peas are tender. If the soup is getting thicker, add a little more water.

Break noodles in half and add to pot, stirring well to avoid clumping. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add the herbs, scallions and spinach. Continue cooking until the noodles are al dente, about 5 more minutes, depending on noodles.

Stir in sour cream and white wine vinegar and taste. Season generously with salt and pepper.

When serving, add the onion garnish, if using, as well as a dollop of sour cream. Serve with lime wedges.

 

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A few simple things…

We’re in the thick of summer here. Sunshine and blue skies followed by long, warm evenings, perfect for stargazing from the hammock. The daylight is starting to change a little with a golden hue that reminds me that we are in the midst of a fleeting season. Along with all of this goodness, the garden is starting to come together. Things are growing and beginning to tangle just a bit—the beans wandering into the peppers, the tall cavolo nero shading the little seedlings and the tomatoes, oh, the tomatoes. They can hardly contain themselves, arching over the beds and shading the pathway from six feet up.

It’s easy to get wrapped up with the fresh harvest with most meals. Oftentimes, all I can muster for dinner is a giant bowl of salad, plucked fresh from the garden or toted home from a market adventure. But sometimes in the midst of all this freshness, I crave a change of pace with something savory and cooked. And not just a little swish in the frying pan or bath of salty steam. This craving calls for an hour of gentle simmering on the back corner of the stove.

Actually, this dish is perfect for those late summer meals where you might have other things going on in the kitchen, but still want dinner. Since it requires little prep work, it pairs perfectly with a canner of peaches bubbling away or a small pot of apricot jam, just to name a few. This is one of those recipes that makes the most of precious little—quality ingredients and a little time. Mixed together, they yield the most delicious results.

Beans with tomato sauce

Adapted from Canal House, An Italian Summer

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1/2 pound, or 8 oz.,  fresh green beans, washed and trimmed

About 2 cups strained canned tomatoes, juice reserved

Two or three sprigs of fresh basil

1/4 cup olive oil, or thereabouts

Salt and pepper, to taste

Wash the green beans and the basil. Combine the tomatoes, beans, basil and olive oil in a medium pot with a tight fitting lid. Bring to a gentle boil before turning heat down to a simmer. Cover tightly and allow to cook for about one hour, stirring occasionally and adding the reserved tomato juice if the mixture begins to look to dry, you want it to be nice and saucy! Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve the beans, along with plenty of sauce. They are a perfect topping for pasta or go well alongside most anything else you might be serving.

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One Frosty Winter Afternoon

We had a frosty weekend, which is different than a snowy weekend. But it turns out, no less beautiful. Everything was coated in glorious ice crystals. The trees looked white and every surface took on new dimensions with the frost. While I would happily take snow on any winter day, I have to say that the frost gave the perfect winter look without the snow. Some people seem to appreciate that!

There is just a little bit of me that wants to be insistent about my son getting out in the cold. It bothers me just a little that his daycare doesn’t send the kids out in chilly weather. Months of my childhood were spent out in the cold and snow, playing until my pants were soaked through from hours of sledding and my fingers were nub. I’ll admit I wasn’t always happy to be sent outdoors to play, but likely, it did me good! The more temperate weather here won’t make for months of snowy weather, but I want to make sure he gets out to enjoy the crisp chill of winter and the thrill of seeing things in a new way. As it turns out, he is a pretty happy adventurer.

And while I just can’t stay inside all day during the cold frosty weather, there is little that makes me happier than coming back in after a trek. A brisk walk leaves me tingly cold and warm, all at once. Stepping back inside hits me with a wave of cozy warmth and a waft of whatever it is that might be cooking. And what better time of year to settle into a little bit of slow cooking in the kitchen.

One of my favorite things to cook these days has been a pot of beans. Sounds glamourous, doesn’t it! Sometimes the whole process of cooking beans takes a little pre-planning. Don’t get me wrong, they take very little of my time, but there is that bit about thinking about cooking them a day or so in advance. The weekend seems like the best time to do that. So, it pretty common that Saturday afternoon will find me rummaging through my pantry, trying to decide what beans I will cook on Sunday.

I don’t really spend much effort figuring out what I am going to do with the beans. There is always a pot of soup simmering on the weekend, a perfect foil for a few cups of whatever beans I find. But for something a little more substantial, I found the perfect recipe a summer or two ago in Falling Cloudberries, a brilliant cookbook by Tessa Kiros. I was making a meal from various recipes in her book and stumbled upon this recipe for baked lima beans.

I must admit that I have not always looked at beans with much admiration. It might have been one too many pots of pinto beans from my younger years, cooked by the pound in a giant pressure cooker my mother used for industrial cooking projects. She excelled at making the most of any effort she put out in the kitchen. Giant pots of soups and beans filled the pressure cooker any time we were in need of something to plan on for dinner during the week ahead. Pressure cookers still are a bit frightening to me! And while nothing dramatic ever happened with the cooking, the hissing, steaming and sputtering of that pot signaled many a hearty meal to come.

Since then, I’ve learned a thing or two about beans. How they can be meltingly tender without falling apart in the pot. How a little seasoning can go a really long way with beans. And how easy it is to cook something that will serve up for a few warm and delicious meals. I’ve been lucky enough to discover the huge variety of unique and heirloom varieties of dried beans, including some from my local farmers market. I’m also pretty happy to have found these beans locally as well. And as the chill of the winter weather sets in, I’ve been baking up this recipe with a variety of beans and seasonings, all of them delicious.

I’ve diverged a little from the recipe, making it a little simpler and adapted to the ingrediants I have on hand. And the recipe seems pretty forgiving to a little adaptation. I switch out the beans depending on what I have on hand or want to try cooking. And I always play with the seasonings. Parsley, mint and thyme are all delicious, but so is a teaspoon or so of herbes de provence. I suspect you could also take this dish in a new direction with some black beans, jalapenos and cilantro. So many possibilities…
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Baked Lima Beans with Onions, Tomatoes and Parsley

Adapted from Falling Cloudberries, by Tessa Kiros

3 cups dried lima beans or other variety, soaked overnight

1/2 cup olive oil

1 large red onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, with leaves, chopped

1 1/2 14 oz. cans peeled and coursly chopped tomatoes

4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or other herbs, use less of dried varieties

Set out the beans to soak overnight. Drain the beans and put them in the saucepan, covering generously with cold water. Bring to a boil. Skim off any scum that rises and turn down to a medium heat. Cook until beans are very tender. Actual cooking time will vary depending on the beans used, so check them as you progress. Add salt to the beans toward the end of cooking time.

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Drain the beans, reserving about 1 1/2 cups of the cooking water. Put the beans in a large baking dish or dutch oven. The deeper the dish, the saucier the beans.

Heat about 2 tablespoon of olive oil in a large skillet. Gently cook the onions and celery until they are softened, stirring so that they don’t stick. Remove from heat and mix in the tomatoes and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Add this mixture into the beans, stirring in the remaining olive oil and enough of the reserved cooking liquid to keep the beans quite moist. Cover with lid or foil and bake for 45 minutes, then remove the covering and stir the beans. If they are drying out, add a little more water. Return to the oven for another 30 minutes.

The beans should be deliciously tender at this point, golden on top and with a little sauce. Serve them warm, with a little drizzle of olive oil or sprinkle of herbs.

 

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