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Adaptation

Spaghetti with Chorizo and Almonds is one of my go-to recipes. It is fast, easy and delicious. And for about 4 years now I have been obediently following the directions. Suddenly, out of the blue last week it stuck me, “Why have I not adapted this recipe!”.  It is the perfect recipe for adapting. So last Thursday I did.

 

Spaghetti with Farmers Sausage, Cannellini Beans & Spinach
Adapted from Gourmet’s Spaghetti with Chorizo and Almonds

yield: makes 4 servings | active time: 30 minutes | total time: 35 minutes

 

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 1/2 cups water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 or 3 garlic cloves, diced
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2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 medium onion, finely chopped
12 ounces fideos (dried coiled vermicelli noodles) or angel-hair pasta broken into 2-inch lengths
1 bunch of baby spinach, trimmed
1 (14- to 19-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Parmesan for topping

 

Directions: Bring broth, water, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to a boil in a small saucepan, then reduce heat and keep at a bare simmer.

Heat oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then sauté garlic until pale golden, about 30 seconds. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Add farmers sausage and sauté until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer with slotted spoon to paper towels with garlic. Add butter to pot and sauté onion until golden, about 5 minutes, then add pasta and sauté, breaking up fideos with a wooden spoon, until golden, about 4 minutes. Add broth mixture and cook, covered, for about 4 minutes. Quickly add spinach to the pasta mixture and continue cooking until all liquid is absorbed, about 2 minutes. Stir in cannellini beans, farmers sausage, garlic, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve pasta with a sprinkle of parmesan cheese.

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In search of frisée

Who would have thought I’d be tracking down a salad at this time of year? Here it is, the holiday season with all of the merry and bright business, and I’m seeking out a salad! I suppose it makes some sense, with all of the fancy meals and sweets that seem to take over at this time of year. A crisp salad might just be the ticket.

But I should note that I’m not talking about just any lettuce and tomato salad. Those are best saved for the appropriate seasons, which usually does not pair the two together in my little summer time. Lettuce is at its prime in the spring when small, delicate leaves are a chore to pick, but so worth it! I know that the baby lettuce salad mixes are available at any grocery store, in any season, but more on that later. And tomatoes, let’s just save those for late July or August. They are better that way. In the meantime, I’ll tell you about the salad.

One chilly evening, I sat down with a friend to share dinner. We’ll often share a few tapas to start and just happened upon a Turkish Salad on the menu. A few ingredients were listed – endive, pomegranate, parsley and hazelnut toffee. Could I really have been hooked after that brief description? Seems so…

The salad was so perfect, a balance of everything I could want in a salad. The greens are seasonally appropriate, for me anyway. Somehow the bitterness of endive and frisée speaks of cold weather. The pale greenish yellow is a color that somehow brightens up a winter day, but at the same time, reminds me that sunlight is not the most plentiful! And crunch, so much crunch! The tart pomegranate, the rich green flavor of the parsley, salty olives and my favorite part, toffee! Yes, I may have wanted to get away from the sweet, but a little sprinkle of toffee in my salad was amazing.

I left the restaurant wanting more. Knowing that I’d be tracking down ingredients and recreating that flavor in the weeks to come. But let’s be honest here, I live in a small town. Finding ingredients for something called Turkish Salad certainly wasn’t going to be so easy.

Belgian endive, sure, I can find that. Frisée? Who shops for frisée on a regular basis? I knew I’d seen it before but what were the chances that anyone would be stocking it when I was looking for it? Well, let’s put it this way, I went to every grocery store in town. Some of them multiple times. I talked to anyone working in the produce section, sometimes having to explain just what it was I was looking for. One guy suggested I buy a couple of bags of salad greens and pick the frisée out! It amused me, but it turns out he couldn’t find any bagged greens that included it! At another store, I had a lengthy discussion about the difference between curly endive and escarole. I am not an expert, but it turns out the produce guy might not have been either! In the end, frisée was substituted for the pale inside leaves of curly endive. I wish you more luck!

And don’t let me forget about the pomegranate molasses. It doesn’t really sound like an exotic ingredient, does it? I think anything with the word molasses in it just sounds warm, dark and cozy. But pomegranate molasses is not something in ready supply around here. Lucky for me, I shared my delicious tale of the salad with a friend traveling to Portland for the weekend. And happily, she was willing to go on a mission and came back with supplies for me.

Olives, pomegranates, flat-leaf parsley, homemade toffee, those were the easy ones. Although if I had a little bigger selection of olives, I’ve likely be a little happier. But I had gathered enough ingredients to take a shot at the salad. But before I did that, I wanted one more taste.

So off I went, out for lunch by myself. OK, I took my camera along because I really wanted to take a picture of how lovely it all looked, stacked up on a little plate. The restaurant was empty and I got a table by the window all to myself. Since it was early, the waiter was happy to help with my interest in the salad, answering questions about what type of olives they used, the vinegar and such.

And good thing I went, because I had forgotten a few little details, like the finely diced shallots that spiked the dressing or the fresh green flavor the liberal dashes of parsley left. And I wouldn’t have gotten to taste the golden beets with house made yogurt, citrus and the finest dusting of coriander. But we can talk about that some other time.

This salad might take a little shopping around to compile all of the ingredients depending on your location, but I think it could be just the thing to cure the winter grey. Fresh, crisp and bright, it might even find its way into a holiday meal and be perfectly at home. I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I have.

Happy holidays!

Turkish Salad

Adapted from Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen with special thanks to Island and Chris
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Serves two

1 shallot, finely diced

4 Belgian endive, washed, trimmed and sliced into 1/2 inch pieces

Small bunch frisée or curly endive leaves, washed and chopped

2 tablespoons flat parsley, roughly chopped

1/3 cup chopped green olives, use a mix of moroccan olives, if you can find them

1/2 cup pomegranate seeds

Dressing of olive oil, champagne vinegar and pomegranate molasses, to taste

2 tablespoons toffee, I used homemade almond toffee

 

Peel and finely dice shallot. Let sit for 15 minutes in cold water. Maybe a little red wine vinegar, if you are feeling generous. Drain and pat dry.

Combine the greens, parsley, olives and pomegranate seeds in a bowl. Toss to combine.

Whisk olive oil, champagne vinegar and pomegranate molasses together in a small bowl. Add shallots to the mixture. Adjust seasonings to taste. This will likely depend on your olives and how salty they are. Dress salad and combine well. Arrange salad onto serving plates.

Sprinkle with about 1 tablespoon of toffee per plate. Serve immediately.

 

 

 

 

 

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One Frosty Winter Afternoon

We had a frosty weekend, which is different than a snowy weekend. But it turns out, no less beautiful. Everything was coated in glorious ice crystals. The trees looked white and every surface took on new dimensions with the frost. While I would happily take snow on any winter day, I have to say that the frost gave the perfect winter look without the snow. Some people seem to appreciate that!

There is just a little bit of me that wants to be insistent about my son getting out in the cold. It bothers me just a little that his daycare doesn’t send the kids out in chilly weather. Months of my childhood were spent out in the cold and snow, playing until my pants were soaked through from hours of sledding and my fingers were nub. I’ll admit I wasn’t always happy to be sent outdoors to play, but likely, it did me good! The more temperate weather here won’t make for months of snowy weather, but I want to make sure he gets out to enjoy the crisp chill of winter and the thrill of seeing things in a new way. As it turns out, he is a pretty happy adventurer.

And while I just can’t stay inside all day during the cold frosty weather, there is little that makes me happier than coming back in after a trek. A brisk walk leaves me tingly cold and warm, all at once. Stepping back inside hits me with a wave of cozy warmth and a waft of whatever it is that might be cooking. And what better time of year to settle into a little bit of slow cooking in the kitchen.

One of my favorite things to cook these days has been a pot of beans. Sounds glamourous, doesn’t it! Sometimes the whole process of cooking beans takes a little pre-planning. Don’t get me wrong, they take very little of my time, but there is that bit about thinking about cooking them a day or so in advance. The weekend seems like the best time to do that. So, it pretty common that Saturday afternoon will find me rummaging through my pantry, trying to decide what beans I will cook on Sunday.

I don’t really spend much effort figuring out what I am going to do with the beans. There is always a pot of soup simmering on the weekend, a perfect foil for a few cups of whatever beans I find. But for something a little more substantial, I found the perfect recipe a summer or two ago in Falling Cloudberries, a brilliant cookbook by Tessa Kiros. I was making a meal from various recipes in her book and stumbled upon this recipe for baked lima beans.

I must admit that I have not always looked at beans with much admiration. It might have been one too many pots of pinto beans from my younger years, cooked by the pound in a giant pressure cooker my mother used for industrial cooking projects. She excelled at making the most of any effort she put out in the kitchen. Giant pots of soups and beans filled the pressure cooker any time we were in need of something to plan on for dinner during the week ahead. Pressure cookers still are a bit frightening to me! And while nothing dramatic ever happened with the cooking, the hissing, steaming and sputtering of that pot signaled many a hearty meal to come.

Since then, I’ve learned a thing or two about beans. How they can be meltingly tender without falling apart in the pot. How a little seasoning can go a really long way with beans. And how easy it is to cook something that will serve up for a few warm and delicious meals. I’ve been lucky enough to discover the huge variety of unique and heirloom varieties of dried beans, including some from my local farmers market. I’m also pretty happy to have found these beans locally as well. And as the chill of the winter weather sets in, I’ve been baking up this recipe with a variety of beans and seasonings, all of them delicious.

I’ve diverged a little from the recipe, making it a little simpler and adapted to the ingrediants I have on hand. And the recipe seems pretty forgiving to a little adaptation. I switch out the beans depending on what I have on hand or want to try cooking. And I always play with the seasonings. Parsley, mint and thyme are all delicious, but so is a teaspoon or so of herbes de provence. I suspect you could also take this dish in a new direction with some black beans, jalapenos and cilantro. So many possibilities…
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Baked Lima Beans with Onions, Tomatoes and Parsley

Adapted from Falling Cloudberries, by Tessa Kiros

3 cups dried lima beans or other variety, soaked overnight

1/2 cup olive oil

1 large red onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, with leaves, chopped

1 1/2 14 oz. cans peeled and coursly chopped tomatoes

4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or other herbs, use less of dried varieties

Set out the beans to soak overnight. Drain the beans and put them in the saucepan, covering generously with cold water. Bring to a boil. Skim off any scum that rises and turn down to a medium heat. Cook until beans are very tender. Actual cooking time will vary depending on the beans used, so check them as you progress. Add salt to the beans toward the end of cooking time.

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Drain the beans, reserving about 1 1/2 cups of the cooking water. Put the beans in a large baking dish or dutch oven. The deeper the dish, the saucier the beans.

Heat about 2 tablespoon of olive oil in a large skillet. Gently cook the onions and celery until they are softened, stirring so that they don’t stick. Remove from heat and mix in the tomatoes and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Add this mixture into the beans, stirring in the remaining olive oil and enough of the reserved cooking liquid to keep the beans quite moist. Cover with lid or foil and bake for 45 minutes, then remove the covering and stir the beans. If they are drying out, add a little more water. Return to the oven for another 30 minutes.

The beans should be deliciously tender at this point, golden on top and with a little sauce. Serve them warm, with a little drizzle of olive oil or sprinkle of herbs.

 

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All you’ll need is a pumpkin

I am a little late coming to an appreciation for pumpkins. For most of my life, the only role pumpkin played in my culinary landscape was as filling for the occasional pie. For one thing, I don’t typically like pie. And pumpkin pie did nothing to change my mind. Which means pumpkin was pretty much a non-event in my kitchen.

Things began to change when I discovered a pumpkin muffin recipe in Gourmet. It was about Thanksgiving and I was looking for recipes to feed the family. The muffins turned out to be a hit and for several years, they have been a part of our Saturday morning routine once autumn rolls around.

This year things started innocently enough out in the garden. I had a wild idea to plant a little pumpkin for my son. In order to conserve space and accomodate for his size, I picked a miniature variety. We spent the summer noting its progress in the back corner of the garden. And when fall arrived, we happily harvested 10 small pumpkins. There is something about a garden that gives me extra motivation to make sure nothing is wasted, so this year, I’ve been looking for new ways to use up our little pumpkin collection. So far we’ve had a couple of successful curries, but it was the most recent stuffed pumpkin that really stole the show.

Some time ago, I tasted the remaining bits of a very delicious roasted pumpkin, stuffed full of goodness, at a work party. The recipe had come from Ruth Reichl and left me thinking about opportunities where I might make it myself. But opportunities to actually serve a 10-pound pumpkin seem to be few and far between in my kitchen. But enter the mini pumpkins from the garden and Dorie’s gentle reminder with another stuffed pumpkin recipe in her splendid cookbook and suddenly, stuffed pumpkin looked like it could be a reality.

While a recipe might seem like a good idea, in my experience, it is all about the size of the pumpkin. Roughly, a pound of pumpkin is going to be enough for one person. And while I haven’t tested it out, I’d be willing to bet that this would work equally well with squash as well. So, here are some ideas to get you started.

To prepare the pumpkin, wash it and carefully cut out the top, much like you would if you were carving a jack o’lantern. Clean out the seeds, saving them for another tasty treat, if you feel inspired.

I stuffed my pumpkin with bits of leftover baguette, small cubes of Gruyere cheese, a shower of snipped chives from the garden, along with a little thyme and freshly ground black pepper. The magic ingredient was likely the cream. Once the filling was prepared and stuffed into the pumpkin, I began to pour it on. Mixed with a little freshly grated nutmeg and salt, the cream softens the baguette and bakes into a savory little fondue of sorts.

There are endless possibilities for other additions. Top of my list would likely be a little bacon. But I wouldn’t be shy about trying different cheeses and herbs, either. Once you’ve chosen your ingredients and filled the pumpkin, pop the pumpkin lid on and slip it into the oven. I cooked my small pumpkin on a baking sheet, covered with a little parchment paper. A bigger pumpkin may require a little more support from a baking dish as it softens. I cooked mine for about 90 minutes in a 350 oven, checking for doneness with a skewer once I got past the one hour mark. A few minutes to rest and cool, and you’ve got a perfect fall dinner.

If that’s not enough to get you excited about pumpkin, here are some other links I’m working up the courage to try:

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In the meantime, you’ll find me out crunching in the leaves and dreaming about the tasty treats roasting away in the oven…

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What was I thinking?

Like virtually everyone in the world I have comfort zones. Rules that I live by: I don’t touch raw meat, I certainly do not wear the shorts over tights look, and my home is always in a state of controlled chaos. Every line was crossed this week.

It all started when I turned down Scott’s offer to trim and cube the beef that I was planning to stew for a dinner we were having the next day. I should have realized that saying no to his offer would mean I would have to do it myself! I had decided to make My Go-To- Beef Daube by Dorie Greenspan, you can find the recipe in her cookbook Around My French Table.

I am the product of a vegetarian home. As a kid, we occasionally had turkey at Grandmas for Thanksgiving and Christmas. There was also that one very out of the ordinary occasion when grandma went out with the dog and grandpa’s rifle and shot a Christmas duck! And once in a blue moon my mom would come upstairs from the deep freeze with a couple of drum sticks and say she wanted fried chicken the way her mom made it. So, to say that I’m uncomfortable with raw meat would be the understatement of the year.

Last Saturday morning I could be found in the kitchen bemoaning the fact that I was stuck cutting the meat to Ginger who had graciously joined me with a bottle of rose via facetime from Paris.  What I wouldn’t have given to switch places with her! By the way, I would recommend that you run out and get Around My French Table and make that Beef Daube because it was fantastic, if I do say so myself.

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Now what about all those other insane little rules you maybe thinking. Well, on Monday I pulled out a pair of dressy charcoal short, black leggings and a pair of suede boots and marched right out the front door without even a second thought. On Tuesday chaos tipped the scale and the house became a disaster zone! 20 minutes before work I was scurrying around the house trying to tidy, moving things come one room to another and prepping dinner. Things ended badly with me nearly cutting off my finger.

Today I am about to cross the biggest thickest line of them all. I am kind of a private person. I have always felt that creativity is personal. Maybe I’m a little secretive or just don’t like having to explain myself or deal with critic. But most of my projects take place around the kitchen table and are only shared with a few people. Here I am laying it all out on the table, sharing my thoughts & ideas, my history & future and my life I guess. What was I thinking!

Now for some breakfast.

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