Tag archive for soup

It’s been a little grey lately. It’s just the way fall happens around here—sometimes we’ll go for days without seeing the sun. But when it appears, it simply glorious. In the transition to fall, I’ve been turning to my stock pots a little more frequently. Nothing fends off the chill of a cold day like a bowl of soup. So that’s what I’ve been making.

I stumbled on this recipe a few years back. I think it was winter and I was in the middle of a bean soup binge and looking for something new. Often, when it comes to soups, I don’t use a recipe. I start out with an idea, chopping and sautéing my way along until I get something I am happy with. But that can get old, so I was looking for new ideas when I came upon this gem…a take on an Iranian soup by one of my favorites, Yotam Ottolenghi.

When I think of bean soup, I think hearty and filling. But not so much comforting and bright, all in one mouthful, which is exactly what this soup is. The combination of legumes lends a decidedly creamy texture to the soup without any blending or mashing. And the handfuls of fresh herbs and spinach bring a lovely fresh aspect to the soup.

Over the course of a few winters, I’ve tried many variations on this recipe. All kinds of beans and different herb combinations depending on what’s on hand. It has gone gluten-free with the addition of rice noodles in place of regular pasta and been doubled to stock a freezer with future lunches. It’s even a favorite with my little guy, who loves the chickpeas and noodles. And despite those variations, we seem to like this version best of all.

And a few notes before we get started…if you don’t think you have time to soak and cook the beans in advance, canned beans will work in a pinch. This soup keeps nicely and makes for easy meals over a few days. If you decide to do this, you may want to forgo the onion garnish and just keep all of the onions in the soup. But whatever you do, please remember the limes. A few squeezes of the juice bring the flavors together beautifully.

Persian noodle soup

Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe

3/4 cup dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
3/4 cup dried lima beans, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
2 large onions, thinly sliced
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons turmeric
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2 quarts vegetable stock
1 cup chopped parsley
1 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped dill
1 bunch chopped scallions, about 1 cup
1 170g bag baby spinach
100g linguine noodles
3/4 cup sour cream, plus more to garnish
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Limes, for serving

Drain the beans from their soaking liquid and cook, separately, until almost tender. Depending on soaking time and the beans, this could take anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour, so check frequently. Drain and rinse.

Heat oil in a large stock pot at medium heat. Add sliced onion and cook until they begin to turn golden brown, at least 20 minutes. Continue cooking, adding the turmeric, along with a dash of salt and pepper. Stir to combine, then remove about a third of the onions from the pot for garnish.

Add in the split peas, pre-cooked beans and the stock and bring to a steady simmer for about 30 minutes, until the peas are tender. If the soup is getting thicker, add a little more water.

Break noodles in half and add to pot, stirring well to avoid clumping. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add the herbs, scallions and spinach. Continue cooking until the noodles are al dente, about 5 more minutes, depending on noodles.

Stir in sour cream and white wine vinegar and taste. Season generously with salt and pepper.

When serving, add the onion garnish, if using, as well as a dollop of sour cream. Serve with lime wedges.

Lately, I don’t quite know what season it is. The weather will look promising, with slightly warm temperatures and the small promise of sunshine, only to turn flighty and snow a day or two later. In this kind of weather, I need soup. When I’m not sure what to expect, soup seems like a good solution!

I have my standard soups, ones that I can make without thinking or looking at a recipe. They are the ones that I count on week to week. Then there are the clean-up soups, the ones that I make when I need to use something up. Sometimes there is a recipe, other times it is more of a frantic need to use something up before it goes to waste. Last week it was a small basket of potatoes, sending out spindly sprouts. So into the pot they go, with a little of whatever else I might find that sounds complimentary.

But sometimes, I want a soup that I don’t want think about. I don’t want to worry if the flavor of the spices is balanced against the vegetables I’ve already added. These soups are a little fancier than what I make every day – maybe they have toppings or additions, or better yet, dumplings!

Doesn’t everyone have a favorite food memory involving dumplings? I don’t exactly remember what kind of soup my mom would make with her dumplings, but I do remember the dumplings – the soft, steamy dollops of dough, one per bowl for Tina and I. I’m pretty sure we’d both eat around them, slurping up the soup, savoring the dumpling for the very last. Tina always was a better hold out for her favorite part of the meal, so I’m quite sure her bowl would have been perfectly clean except for the dumpling. I never had that much resolve. And while I would make efforts to save my favorite bits for last, I know I would have dug into my dumpling long before Tina.

I can’t quite say when the last time I had a dumpling was, but when I found this recipe with cauliflower and dumplings, I was already on my way to the stove! There is always a head of cauliflower buried somewhere in my fridge. And everything else in this recipe is pretty standard. But what I loved most was the dumplings – they were tiny, almost like little spaetzle. Irresistible!

This soup comes together quickly and the tiny dumplings cook in a flash, perfect for a weeknight meal. And while I think you could likely swap vegetables for what you have on hand, the cauliflower as the main element is delicious! And the paprika adds a delicious warm flavor to everything. Just don’t wait too long to try it!

Karfiolleves, or Paprika-Spiced Cauliflower Soup

From Andrea Németh’s recipe in Saveur

Serves 4

1/3 cup flour
½ tsp. salt
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1 egg
1 ½ tbsp. Hungarian hot paprika
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
6 cups vegetable stock
1 small head cauliflower, large stem removed, cut into bite-size florets
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, stemmed and finely chopped

1. To make the dumplings: In a bowl, mix the flour and salt, then add 2 tablespoons butter. Use your fingers to rub the butter into flour until pea-size crumbles form. Gently whisk the egg and stir it into the flour mixture until a dough forms. Pop this mixture into the refrigerator until ready to use.

2. Heat remaining 4 tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add paprika and onion, and stir, cooking them until soft, about 5 minutes. Add vegetable stock, cauliflower and carrot. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.

3. To make the dumplings, use a ½-tsp. measuring spoon to portion out the dough. Drop all of the dumpling dough into simmering soup and cook, stirring gently, until the dumplings are cooked through, about 3 minutes.

4. To serve, ladle soup and dumplings into serving bowls, and garnish with parsley.

I like to eat seasonally. Right now I have a crate of citrus in the garage and that doesn’t happen at any time of the year other than a few short months in the dead of winter. Strawberries and tomatoes are scarce at my house right now, but you will find my produce drawers full of kale, parsnips, brussels sprouts and fennel.

But more than that, I’m talking about the actual dishes I make. I am sure it is not news to anyone that a warm stove on a cold day is a good idea. So I’m often roasting or simmering a pan of something. And more often than not, it’s a pot of soup. What’s  not to love about a pot of delicious vegetables stewing away – warm, tasty and convenient. Around here, a pot of soup will definitely tie us over for a few meals, saving cooking and clean-up time when it matters most during the week.

Lately I’ve been toying with potential variations to a Mexican tortilla soup. You know, the rich tomatoey blend that lets you build your own bowl, adding tortillas and whatever else your heart desires? Surely that concept carries over into other ethic flavor combinations?
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Last weekend in a fit of garage cleaning, I decided I had better start into my hoarded squash collection before the weather turns and I am no longer feeling like eating squash or roasting anything. I roasted up a pan of squash and once cooked, scraped them into the soup pot. It was giving me an Italian feeling, so I quickly sautéed a little kale and added a spoonful of roasted tomatoes and a little dollop of sour cream. Tasty!

So what about you? What would you add to your bowl of soup to make it even more delicious or to round in out into a meal? I’d love to hear your ideas.