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Sweet and spicy walnuts

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Standing in front of my jam-packed fridge this weekend, I don’t think many people would have confused me with a minimalist. I love the clean and spare look of a carefully curated kitchen counter or a meticulously arranged fridge, but admire as I may, I can’t maintain that look for more than three hours. The cleaning itch hit me this weekend and I swept the countertops clear—mixer tucked away in the pantry, cutting boards oiled and cookbooks tidied away. I even dove deep into the crisper drawers searching for forgotten bits. This is where I unearthed the beets.

roasting

A handful of beets had been languishing for more than a few weeks. But the good news is that beets tend to store pretty well tucked away in a cold dark corner. There were a few desperately pale slips of leaves sprouting from a beet or two. Otherwise, they were no worse for their time waiting. Once found, I knew I’d better not stow them again. So in the midst of my kitchen makeover, I pulled the beets out of their bag and dropped them into the sink for a good scrub.

interior

I don’t know too many people who are ambivalent about beets. This humble root seems to divide people into two camps—those who eagerly search them out or those who would rather keep them off the plate. It might just be my experience, but it seems to me that people usually have an opinion about beets. I fall into the first camp, a beet lover. Since I’m still working on a few members of my household, I usually look for ways to add beets into a dish without making them the main flavor. For that reason, beet salad tends to work out really well for me! I roast the beets whole with their skins on. A pan readily fits alongside most anything else I might be baking. And after an hour or so in the heat, they slip easily from their skins. I tuck them away in a jar, just waiting for my next salad.

salad 2

But no matter what your thoughts might be on beets, you’ll want to hear about my crispy-delicious salad addition—spicy candied walnuts. This recipe has been with me for years, likely shared in some variation by a friend who would whip up batches to feed the masses. I’ve played with the spices, subbing in smoking pimentón and chili powder or even a fancy curry blend, depending on what flavor I’m going for. Sometimes, if my pantry is looking well-stocked, I’ll add a little maple syrup in place of the corn syrup. No matter what the variation, these candied nuts will be a star in any salad, making it substantial enough to feel like a meal. And don’t just save them for salads, they also make a great cocktail snack or a super-luxe addition to a custom nut mix.

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Candied Walnuts

2 cups walnut halves
Scant 1/4 cup light corn syrup
2 tablespoons white sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

Preheat oven to 325º. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and mix well to coat. Place walnut mixture on baking sheet and bake in the center of the oven for about 15 minutes, stirring every five minutes until fragrant and the sugar mixture bubbles.

Remove from heat and stir nuts to separate any large clusters. Allow to cool on the pan and store in an airtight container. They’ll keep for several days.

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Pass the paneer

You’ve seen those kits for homemade cheese, right? You buy the little box and make yourself some cheese? They have a few variations on these, I’m pretty sure I saw a mushroom kit as well as a few other fun options. Well, if you’ve been thinking about taking the plunge, I’ve got the perfect starter recipe for you today. Let me introduce you to paneer cheese, a mild Indian fresh cheese that you can make and eat in a couple of hours. It might be a gateway drug, I don’t know, but I’ve always had a taste for it that leaves me skimming the menus at Indian restaurants looking for the paneer.

At this time of year, I always seem to find myself with a myriad of ambitious ideas, “I’m going to do this, try this and cook this…” etc., etc. But this is one of those great ideas that you can tackle pretty easily. See, this cheese is simple. Chances are, you already have everything you need to make this cheese. All you need is about an hour or less of working time and the magic of cheese making could be all yours.

I often find myself thinking about Indian dishes in the winter. Something about the warm and spicy flavors always feels most satisfying to me during cooler weather. It’s also a pretty convenient time to try your hand at cheese making. I know you really don’t want to be outside right now, especially if you live in my part of the world. So a warm bowl of spicy vegetables with fresh cheese might be just what you need.

I count myself lucky to have spent time around several great home cooks who had a passion for Indian food and sharing the experience. It’s given me more than a passing interest in Indian food. But one of the most mouth-watering experiences I’ve ever had was at Rangoli in Vancouver. It is a casual Indian restaurant and they have this delicious mushroom and cream dish that I still dream about. Their plates have great combinations of flavors and textures and their starters are too good to be true—yes, I’m looking at you, cassava fries. So, when my sister, Tina, bought me Vikram Vij’s cookbook from his restaurants, I was understandably delighted. But she even outdid herself by buying me a spice box, full of all of the specialty ingredients listed in the book. Genius, I’m telling you!

Notes: I love the flavors of this dish with some plain white basmati rice. The vegetables have plenty of salt, so keep that in mind as you taste this dish. Once cooked, the salt balances out nicely with the mild cheese and some unsalted rice. Most of the spices in this dish are likely already in your pantry, and if you find yourself missing the asafoetida called for in this recipe, you can leave it out. It is also readily available online and is a good addition to your spice rack if you cook many Indian dishes. And while I’m suggesting that you make your own paneer, it can also be found in plenty of well-stocked grocery stores. 

Brussels Sprouts with Red Pepper and Paneer

Adapted from Vikram Vij’s cookbook

2/3 cup raw unsalted cashews
1/2 cup canola oil
1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
3/4 teaspoon asafoetida
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
12 oz Brussels sprouts, trimmed
1 large tomato, finely chopped, about 1 cup
1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1/2 pieces
3/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
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Preheat the oven to 375º. Place the cashews on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 3 minutes. Stir the cashews thoroughly so they do not scorch and bake for about another 3 minutes until golden. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Wash and trim the Brussels sprouts, cutting them into quarters length-wise. Prepare the tomato and bell pepper, chopping and setting aside.

In a large, shallow pan, heat the oil over a medium-high heat until the oil shimmers. Add the brown mustard seeds and cook until you hear the first seeds popping, about one minute. Quickly sprinkle the asafoetida and cumin seeds in the pan and continue cooking about 30 seconds more. Turn heat down to medium, add turmeric, salt and cayenne pepper, stirring well and cooking about another minute. Be careful not to burn the seeds.

Add in the tomatoes and Brussels sprouts and stir well to coat. Cover with a lid and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in the red peppers about cook for another two to three minutes, until the vegetables are just beginning to get tender. Remove from heat.

Just before serving, stir in the cilantro and paneer and top with the cashews.

 

Paneer

Also adapted from Vikram Vij’s cookbook

Makes about 1 1/2 pounds

1/4 cup water
1 gallon whole milk
1 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup white vinegar
Cheese cloth

Pour water into a large, heavy bottom pan. Slowly add in milk and sugar. Turn heat to medium-high and heat milk to a boil, stirring frequently. Since the milk can scorch quickly during this process, don’t leave it for long without stirring. Depending on your heat, this can take between 15 to 30 minutes. Once the milk is about to boil, quickly remove from heat and add vinegar. Allow milk to sit for about 5 minutes while the solids separate from the liquid.

Line a large colander or strainer with three layers of cheese cloth. Place the strainer in the sink and carefully spoon in the milk solids. Leave the paneer to sit in the sieve for about 5 to 10 minutes so it drains completely. Carefully gather up the edges of the cheese cloth and tie them together nice and snug to seal the cheese inside.

Place the paneer on a large clean plate. Fill a large heavy pot with water (I like to use the one I cooked with as it soaks) and place on top of the paneer to flatten it. Allow it to sit like this for about one hour.

The paneer can be used right away or will keep in the fridge for about four days.

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The Potatoes You Need to Know About…

I can turn down a baked potato any day, but a potato baked in butter is another matter entirely. Make that a crispy stack of thinly sliced potatoes, scented with thyme, sprinkled with coarse salt and pepper and suddenly I’m rummaging through my potato bin looking for supplies!

True, I am not a potato fanatic most of the time. The main exception to that rule is early summer when the season’s first potatoes start showing up at the local farmers market. I sort through the baskets, looking for the smallest tubers to bring home for dinner. With new potatoes, the simplest preparations win my heart every time. But in the dead of winter, potatoes need a little help making it onto my menu. Mashed potatoes make a few seasonal appearances on our table. Sometimes they’ll show up in a soup or curry but not much else. But not so long ago, I saw a lovely little recipe by Molly Stevens on Bon Appetit. Cue the lovely, layered and crispy mini Pommes Anna. And let the potato rummaging begin.

Aside from the crispy bits of potato, which I will admit I do have a love of, these potatoes feature thyme. Thyme might even be the star of this recipe. Wispy little sprigs adorn the stacks of potatoes, as well as flavoring the butter. Thyme’s subtile earthy flavor seems to go with everything right now. Squash, sure. Anything with melted cheese? Yes, please. I can’t help myself from adding it to most anything I might be baking this winter. My poor little plant is barely keeping up with demand.

The classic French dish, Pommes Anna, is usually a larger cake that is sliced into pieces before serving. And it doesn’t get all fancy with the addition of herbs. But I loved the individual feel of these little stacks, which makes for a little more fussing while baking, but a lovely presentation at the table. And truth be told, these little bundles do pack a fair bit more crunch per serving!

A few notes: The key to success in this recipe comes down to equipment. A mandoline will slice the potatoes perfectly so arranging them in the pan is easy and pretty. It’s also helpful to choose small potatoes. I just went with stock on hand, but I think a little smaller potato would have looked nicer. And please don’t save these delicious bundles up for a special dinner, I loved them heated up and served with Sunday brunch.

Mini Pommes Anna with Thyme
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Adapted from Molly Stevens recipe on Bon Appetit

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
12-24 small thyme sprigs plus 2 teaspoons leaves
1 small shallot, chopped finely
1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds small waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold), the smaller the better
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350°. Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Generously brush muffin cups with butter. Line the bottom of each cup with parchment-paper rounds.

Arrange a couple small sprigs of thyme in the center of each round of paper. Drizzle a little butter into bottom of each cup.

Add thyme and shallots to remaining butter in saucepan. Cook over medium heat for a couple of minutes until you can smell the herbs.Remove from heat.

Using a mandoline, slice potatoes into very thin rounds and place them in a bowl, discarding the ends of the potato. Pour the herb butter over the potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss the potatoes to coat. Divide slices among muffin cups, building overlapping layers in a circular pattern. Gently press the center of each stack to compact and don’t be afraid to continue a little above the rim of each cup. They do shrink when they are baked. Drizzle any remaining butter and seasoning from bowl over the potatoes. Cover the pan tightly with foil and bake until potatoes can be pierced easily with a toothpick or knife, about 35 minutes.

Remove foil and place a rimmed baking sheet upside down on top of the muffin tin. Carefully turn both pans over so the potatoes fall onto the baking sheet. Lightly tap the pan on the counter if needed to release the potatoes. Rearrange any slices that may have some loose. Using a metal spatula, carefully turn cakes so the thyme sprigs face down. Discard parchment. You can do this in advance, covering and chilling the potatoes for one day.

Increase heat to 425°. Uncover cakes if prepared in advance. Bake until bottoms and edges are golden and crispy, about 20 to 25 minutes. Check frequently as they can darken quickly. Carefully turn potatoes so the thyme sprigs facing up. Sprinkle with a little more salt and pepper, if desired. Serve warm.

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Of grapes and cheese plates

Sometimes it seems like December gets all of the attention. Friends, holiday gatherings, traditions and delicious food. Once January rolls around, we might be resolute and hopeful facing the new year, but the same little incentives to get through another month of winter just aren’t there. So, this month I have a mission—make January a little more exciting. I’m going to try to fit in some of the cooking, get-togethers and activities that just didn’t make it into my pre-holiday schedule. And no, this doesn’t fall into the new year resolutions category. I’m just trying to brightening up a grey month. Maybe in February I’ll go back into hibernation mode!

Usually, when it comes to things like taking down the Christmas tree or other decorations, I’m a bit wistful. I’d like to see some of those bits of color and sparkle a little longer in the midst of winter. In the past, I’ve been pretty resourceful about turning Christmas decorations into a bright Valentine theme! But this year, I was ready to clean up and move on. It just seems to have been that kind of year for me. And since I’ve tidied things up and we won’t be tracking pine needles around the house anymore, maybe it won’t be such a bad idea to invite friends over to share a meal.

Getting back to new year resolutions, it seems that everyone has some kind of food resolution to start off the year. But it seems like most of those goals could be grouped into a wish to eat more healthy. Which is exactly what makes it a little easier to plan out a meal at this time of year. Make it a one-bowl meal with a pot of healthful and filling soup (maybe something a little bit like this or this), toss together a salad and dinner is served. And better still, make the soup in advance so a little reheating is all that’s needed. Dinner on a weeknight is now a possibility!

But to keep things fun, I still like to include an appetizer—something to whet the appetite and keep people happy while the last bit of dinner prep comes together. Or this could be an after-dinner cheese course as a sweet way to wrap up a meal. And really, there isn’t much room to go wrong with a cheese plate. This recipe idea is simple and lets guests build their snacks to their specific taste.

When sufficient blood is pumped into the make organ, the blood vessels close the valve to maintain a healthy lifestyle with exercise to help reduce the risk of penile odor due online cialis pdxcommercial.com to the presence of molecules called ketones in the urine. One thing is for sure, that Kamagra does help with most instances of erectile dysfunction. viagra price uk Are More Adventurous Reports have indicated that not only cialis on line are you saving time by not sitting through previews and advertisements, but of course the waiting time between the end of your dinner and the movie starting. You should try deep exhales and deep inhales for sildenafil pill about 5 minutes, three times a day to notice the difference. Serve these delicious grapes with a cheese plate and a selection of breads and crackers. Soft and spreadable cheeses are going to work best here, think creamy chèvre or an impossibly rich triple cream.

Roasted grapes

1 to 1 ½ pounds grapes, preferable a red or deeply colored seedless variety
Fresh herbs, I used thyme and chopped rosemary
Olive oil
Salt and fresh pepper

Preheat oven to 425°.

Rinse and sort grapes carefully, looking for any blemishes or soft fruit. Remove a portion of the grapes from their stems, but keep one nice cluster together for a pretty presentation. Place all of the grapes on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Generously cover the grapes with olive oil, sprinkle with fresh herbs and finish with a sprinkle of salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Roast grapes for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. The fruit will begin to caramelize, leaving a lovely grape-y syrup in the pan. Once grapes begin to soften, remove from oven. Arrange the large cluster of grapes on a platter and surround with the individual fruit. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Just pick your meal…

With the holidays here, there seems to be all kinds of hustle and bustle. There are gatherings and presents to attend to, not to mention the last-minute baking or shopping. But with all the news in the last few days, I’ve just been wanting to sit quietly and take things in. It’s easy to get caught up in whatever is at hand during the holidays, but this year it seems a little more important to slow down.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve been thinking about mindfulness. That can mean all kinds of things, but for me, it is about taking in all of the details of regular life on a daily basis. The little things—a sliver of sunlight in the early afternoon, the sweet cedar scent in my favorite tea, the warm glow of the holiday lights. Time in the kitchen, for me, is about that same level of attentiveness—smelling the browning butter and knowing just when it is ready or carefully wrapping a small tree’s worth of persimmons to store away for January. These tasks aren’t milestones in my week, but they bring moments of happiness to my day.

When I think about our meals, I try to be mindful of many things. What’s healthy, what’s in season, what are food preference do I need to account for and what do I want to make? Sometimes a slow simmering pot seems warming. Sunday seems to be a good day for simmering pots at my house in the winter. Other days, quick is king at mealtime, that would be most any workday. Happily, this recipe incorporates both those elements in just the right order. I like to cook a pot of beans on the weekend, then rinse and drain them for use throughout the week.

The best thing about this recipe is that it works for any meal. Paired with poached eggs and a slice of a favorite toasted loaf, it could be breakfast or a light dinner. Since the beans are also delicious at room temperature, it makes a nice addition to shared meal. And it travels well packed in a little jar for a lunch at the office. While the recipe makes enough to feed four as a meal, I’ve been frying the beans in smaller batches as we are ready to eat them and getting a couple of meals from one pot of beans. And don’t be confused, butter beans are the same thing as Lima beans, but one name is much more compelling than the other, no?

Fried butter beans with spinach, feta and sumac

Barely adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty
Serves 4 

2 ¼ cups dried baby butter beans
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1 ½ tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more to finish
8 green onions, cut on a sharp diagonal, very thin
5 cups fresh spinach, sliced thinly, reserve a little for garnish
½ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ cup crumbled feta cheese
2 teaspoons sumac
Generous handful of chopped herbs, parsley, dill, cilantro or mint would all be good

Soak the butter beans in a large bowl filled with water and baking soda. Allow to sit for at least 12 hours or overnight.

Rinse the beans in plenty of fresh water. Place in a large cooking pot topped with plenty of water. Bring to a slow boil and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the beans are tender. The beans should be soft, but not falling apart in the pot. When done, drain the beans and set aside until ready to use.

Working in batches, lightly fry the beans in a large frying pan. Add a little of the butter and oil to the pan, then add enough beans to just cover the bottom of the pan. Take care not to overfill the pan, as you want the beans to have a little room in the pan. At medium-high heat, fry for a minute or two, just to get a little color on the beans. Remove the beans from the pan, add a little more butter, olive oil and beans and continue with the next batch.

When almost done cooking the last batch of beans, add the green onions and almost all of the spinach and sauté for about a minute. Remove the pan from heat and add the rest of the fried beans and the ½ teaspoon salt, tossing gently to combine.

Taste and season the beans as needed, adding in the lemon juice, sumac and more salt, if needed. Sprinkle the beans with the crumbled feta, reserved spinach and handful of chopped herbs. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a little more sumac.

 

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On a caramelly note…

After careful thought, it seems that there are two camps in the kitchen—those who stir for the joy of it and those who prefer to leave simmering pots alone. There may be other sub-categories and side groups, but it seems that most people who join you in the kitchen will usually quickly announce their preference for stirring, if that is the case. My sister falls into this group. From an early age, our kitchen collaborations were usually begun with a “What can I stir?” from her. Initially, I did have my doubts, concerned that her willingness to stir was overshining her willingness to help with other prep tasks. But it doesn’t take long to see the balance that these two styles bring to the kitchen.

For me, I’d rather leave the pots alone, cooking things that can stand up to a little caramelization or simmer time on their own. This leaves me free to move from one project to the next. So when it comes down to some serious cooking, a combination of kitchen personalities seems to work best. And when the cooking project at hand is a few pounds of caramel, that stirring part becomes all the more important.

Caramel, and homemade candy of all sorts, really, have been somewhat of a mystery to me. Caramel is one of those ubiquitous flavors but it wasn’t really on our holiday treat tray growing up. Baked treats were most often our thing, so the sugary world of cooking caramel, brittle and fudge have all been new to me. I’ve lost many a pound of butter and sugar with my attempts to master science of candy making. Maybe it all comes down to the stirring, but I’m still trying. So when the December issue of Martha Stewart’s Living arrived, featuring caramel with tasty variations, I knew I would need help.
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If making caramel can be described as any one task, it would have to be stirring. The ingredient list is not long—add everything into the pot, stir until it reaches a caramelly color (Martha was a bit more precise), then pour it onto a pan and wait. What happens in-between is about 40 minutes of stirring. OK, that might be an exaggeration or due to the fact that there was actually a double batch in progress, either way, whew! My weekend adventures included four kinds of caramel and a whole lot of stirring. Thank goodness for friends with an appreciation for stirring!

No recipe this time, friends. I’m just going to go with Martha on this one—check out her detailed directions and flavor combinations in the December issue of Living. And while they outlined a few delicious flavor combinations, I think the idea of an Earl Grey variety, or something nutty with rosemary would be worth a little experimentation with future batches! And if you’re still trying to come up with some treats to share with friends and family, I can’t help but believe a little box of marshmallows and caramel would make people very happy.  Or, if you want to share a little more caramelly goodness, pour the caramel into a pan and give both as a gift, wrapped up in a bit of baker’s twine.

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Get your sparkle on

The holidays always make me think of traditions—the ones that have gone on for years in my family and the ones that I am trying to create for my own little family. And despite the short, dark days of winter, there is something comforting about those holiday traditions that make this time of year most special.

Now that December is here, it seems like the right time to start with a little Christmas baking. Holiday baking has always been a big part of our holiday celebrations through the years. We each have our favorite sweets that appear on the holiday treat tray year after year. But with busy schedules, a massive amount of baking just seems a little too daunting. So over the past few years, I’ve come up with a different approach—weekend baking. I have plenty of time to get something baked and we get to enjoy and share treats all month long. We might not have all of our treats on the tray together, but I think it works out OK in the end. And with a little helper in the kitchen, this special baking time has just gotten a whole lot more exciting. Every weekend, he asks whether we are going to do any baking. I like to comply!

Since baking with a toddler can be a little challenging, er, exciting, I’ve been thinking about what recipes might be best for him to help with. He likes to be hands-on, helping to measure and pour. I thought about gingerbread cookies with shapes to cut out and decorate. I knew that glitter and sprinkles would be right up his alley. But it seems like there are so many steps in that process, baking and then decorating later. It would be too much for his attention span to bear. So when I found this recipe, it seemed to combine the best of all activities in a short amount of time! Decorating before baking? Yes, please!

These cookies remind me a little of biscotti in that they are twice-baked for extra crunch. It also means that fiddling around with the dough to make them perfect is just not needed—great for helpers. Some variety will make for a nice display in the end. They are a perfect addition to any tray of treats and are sure to be a hit with everything from coffee to cocktails.

A few notes before you get started: This recipes calls for cayenne pepper. It makes the cookies spicy in a very good way. My little guy is OK with the amount in the recipe, but adjust to your tastes.  The sugars and sparkles used on these cookies really set a festive tone. Play around to find favorite combinations. Ours was the vanilla sugar—while not the most festive colors, the flavors were lovely.

Spicy Gingerbread Straws

From Nancy Baggett’s recipe in Better Homes and Gardens, December 2012

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
It is found that flaonoids in Dark Chocolate improve circulation. their pharmacy store purchase cheap cialis They have no other means but to use lowest prices on viagra that has started to occupy the market place. The pill suits men of every viagra no doctor age, but must not be taken by those under 18 are not prescribed to eat this prescription. Whether the levels of these hormones are either high or too http://new.castillodeprincesas.com/directorio/seccion/transportacion/?wpbdp_sort=-field-1 discount cialis low. 2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper (optional)
1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/3 cup molasses (not blackstrap)
1/4 coffee, cooled, or 1/4 water with 1 teaspoon instant coffee

Course sugar or turbinado sugar
Sprinkles or edible glitter

Preheat oven to 350º and position rack in the middle of the oven.

In a large bowl, mix flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, salt, cloves, allspice and cayenne pepper, if using. Mash the brown sugar so there are no lumps are left.

In a small bowl, combine the butter, molasses and coffee and whisk to combine. Pour the butter mixture into the flour and stir well to combine. Knead briefly to mix in all of the flour and make a smooth dough. If the dough is too dry to roll out, add a few drops of water as you kneed. If it is too moist, sprinkle in a little more flour. Divide the dough in half and form roughly into a log.

Place the dough between two sheets of parchment paper and roll into a rectangle, about 6 by 12 inches. Trim the dough if needed, but don’t worry about making a perfect rectangle. Remove the top layer of parchment paper and sprinkle with your choice of sugar and glitter. I used about 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1 tablespoon of sprinkles. Place the parchment paper back on top of the dough and press the sugar gently into the dough. Remove the top layer of parchment.

Use a large knife or a pizza cutter to cut the dough into thin strips, about 1/4-inch by 6 inches wide. Slide the sliced rectangle of dough, still on the parchment paper, onto a baking sheet.

Place the baking sheet in the middle of the oven and bake for about 14 minutes, or until edges are slightly browned and the cookies are just barely firm when pressed. Using the parchment paper, slide the dough onto a cutting board and retrace the cuts between the cookies and separate them a little on the pan. Repeat with the remaining half of the dough.

Once both sheets are baked and trimmed, reduce oven heat to 200º and place both trays back in the over for 10 to 12 more minutes. Remove from oven and place cookies on a wire rack to cook completely. Store in an airtight contained to help them stay crisp.

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Soup season

It’s been a little grey lately. It’s just the way fall happens around here—sometimes we’ll go for days without seeing the sun. But when it appears, it simply glorious. In the transition to fall, I’ve been turning to my stock pots a little more frequently. Nothing fends off the chill of a cold day like a bowl of soup. So that’s what I’ve been making.

I stumbled on this recipe a few years back. I think it was winter and I was in the middle of a bean soup binge and looking for something new. Often, when it comes to soups, I don’t use a recipe. I start out with an idea, chopping and sautéing my way along until I get something I am happy with. But that can get old, so I was looking for new ideas when I came upon this gem…a take on an Iranian soup by one of my favorites, Yotam Ottolenghi.

When I think of bean soup, I think hearty and filling. But not so much comforting and bright, all in one mouthful, which is exactly what this soup is. The combination of legumes lends a decidedly creamy texture to the soup without any blending or mashing. And the handfuls of fresh herbs and spinach bring a lovely fresh aspect to the soup.

Over the course of a few winters, I’ve tried many variations on this recipe. All kinds of beans and different herb combinations depending on what’s on hand. It has gone gluten-free with the addition of rice noodles in place of regular pasta and been doubled to stock a freezer with future lunches. It’s even a favorite with my little guy, who loves the chickpeas and noodles. And despite those variations, we seem to like this version best of all.

And a few notes before we get started…if you don’t think you have time to soak and cook the beans in advance, canned beans will work in a pinch. This soup keeps nicely and makes for easy meals over a few days. If you decide to do this, you may want to forgo the onion garnish and just keep all of the onions in the soup. But whatever you do, please remember the limes. A few squeezes of the juice bring the flavors together beautifully.

Persian noodle soup

Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe

3/4 cup dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
3/4 cup dried lima beans, soaked in plenty of water for at least 12 hours
2 large onions, thinly sliced
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons turmeric
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2 quarts vegetable stock
1 cup chopped parsley
1 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup chopped dill
1 bunch chopped scallions, about 1 cup
1 170g bag baby spinach
100g linguine noodles
3/4 cup sour cream, plus more to garnish
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Limes, for serving

Drain the beans from their soaking liquid and cook, separately, until almost tender. Depending on soaking time and the beans, this could take anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour, so check frequently. Drain and rinse.

Heat oil in a large stock pot at medium heat. Add sliced onion and cook until they begin to turn golden brown, at least 20 minutes. Continue cooking, adding the turmeric, along with a dash of salt and pepper. Stir to combine, then remove about a third of the onions from the pot for garnish.

Add in the split peas, pre-cooked beans and the stock and bring to a steady simmer for about 30 minutes, until the peas are tender. If the soup is getting thicker, add a little more water.

Break noodles in half and add to pot, stirring well to avoid clumping. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add the herbs, scallions and spinach. Continue cooking until the noodles are al dente, about 5 more minutes, depending on noodles.

Stir in sour cream and white wine vinegar and taste. Season generously with salt and pepper.

When serving, add the onion garnish, if using, as well as a dollop of sour cream. Serve with lime wedges.

 

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Kale salad

I’m a little hesitant to include salad recipes here because I’m always concerned about getting the dressing right. Salad seems easy, right? Throw a few greens together with some oil, tanginess and salt and call it good. Maybe I’m just being difficult, but I like my salad to have a little more complexity to it. I like to rummage around and throw in a little of this and that. Just ask anyone who invites me to make a salad in their kitchen.

This salad came together due to an abundance of lovely kale and a need for space in the fridge. I know that kale salad is nothing new — you probably made some last week, right?

This recipe takes me back to a salad I made last year — a little bitter, a little sweet. Maybe it is just what a winter salad should be, more substantial than the soft greens of spring. These are the hardy bowls of greens that fuel us through the dark cold months of winter. And in this case, it might be the bowl of greens that off-sets the richness of a holiday meal. Enjoy your celebrations, friends!

This salad brings out the sweet side of fall. The best part is that the kale stands up so well to the dressing, you can make it long before guests arrive or tote it across town to a friend’s house. Feel free to play around with ingredients, the nuts can certainly be changed out to suit your preference. Also, I used pomegranate seeds in my version, but I’ve also made it with dried cranberries, which were equally good. I’m also going to go out on a limb here and say that if there is no pomegranate molasses in your pantry, you’re going to be OK without it. I like it for its flavorful balance of sweet and tart, but it’s certainly not the only ingredient lending those notes. And if you want to make a meal of it, I think a side of wild rice would compliment these flavors very well and make a delicious one-bowl meal.

Kale Salad

2 bunches black kale (also called lacinato or cavolo nero)
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Generous sprinkle of salt
Zest of one lemon
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1/4-ish teaspoon freshly grated ginger
2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses
Juice of half lemon
Splash of white wine vinegar
1 pomegranate (seeded)
3 or 4 fuyu persimmons, peeled and sliced
1/2 cup toasted nuts
Salt and pepper to taste

Wash and remove the stems from the kale. Roll a stack of about 10 leaves up into a tight roll and thinly slice. Repeat until all of the kale has been sliced. Place the sliced kale in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, a generous sprinkle of salt, chopped shallots and zest of one lemon. Massage the kale leaves until they are well coated with the oil, adding a little more if needed. At this point, the salad can sit and marinate, plan on at least 30 minutes.

In the meantime, toast the nuts on a baking sheet in a warm oven set to 300º for about 15 minutes. Stir every 4 to 5 minutes until golden and fragrant. Remove from the pan and allow to cool completely.

When ready to dress the salad, add the grated ginger, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice and white wine vinegar on top of the kale. Give everything a thorough mix to combine. Top off with the pomegranate seeds, sliced persimmon, toasted nuts and toss lightly. Taste and season with a little more salt and pepper as needed.

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Tunes in the kitchen

 

Since cooking is a form of relaxation for me, not just a quick preparation in order to eat and go, I like to make the most of the time I spend in the kitchen. Oh, you might know the type—you may even have your own collection of favorite pans or knives that makes your cooking experience just that much better. So I know I’m not alone on my wish for particular things in the kitchen.

I am not sure what it says about me or my attention span, but when I’m in the kitchen, I usually have something to listen to. Sometimes it is a podcast (I still have this dream of speaking French, you see) but most of the time, it is music. Sometimes loud, other times a degree above a whisper. And while I am often OK just letting the internet radio come up with a random selection of tunes for me, I do like a good playlist. With the seasons changing and happy afternoons spent in the kitchen, I needed some muscial accompaniment. I thought you might, too, so I’m sharing it with you.

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